I have always used cork roadbed. I am in the process of doing an elevated portion of my layout. A friend of mine uses the foam woodland scenics roadbed that comes in 24’ rolls. I have never used the stuff so I’d like to hear from those who have all about it, the good bad and otherwise.
Cork’s wonderful, but on my second layout I started using the Woodland Scenics, since I was also using their foam risers. I’ve found that the foam roadbed is a much better sound deadener, but it’s also much more sensitive to any irregularities in the sub-roadbed than cork. You REALLY have to have an even sub-roadbed, or your trackage will be bumpy. And being foam, it’s ‘spongier’ than cork, so that after running your trains a while, if you have any loose rail-joiners, they’ll REALLY be loose. Make sure your joiners are tight and if possible, soldered. Other than that, I like the stuff. It’s easy to work with. I use Elmer’s Carpenter Glue to attach it, and the drying time allows any irregularities to be dealt with for at least 3-4 hours after laying it.
Hi jamison1
I use WS foam roadbed and after about 500 feet , I am still very much satisfied with the results. It is very easy to form curves, both large and small radius. It is fast to lay down. I usually apply white glue on the sub bed and after a few minutes lay the roadbed down. I use carpet tacks to help keep it in place on the curves. It’s very easy to cut and shape for turnouts or other specialty areas and it allows for very quiet running of your loco’s and rolling stock. As a plus, I use WS’s 2x4 foam sheets for yards and industrial areas.
I highly recommend it, [^] [:)]
REX
Thanks guys, you’ve given me that extra “push” I needed! I am a terrible creature of habit.
Some good advice from twhite and rexhea, but don’t solder the rail joiners on straight sections leave a small gap for expansion. Use jumper wires @ these joints. Do, however solder the rail joiners on curved track (solder then bend)- will give smoother arc for curves. Pinning and weighting the glued track will stop any creeping as the glue sets. Bob K.
I may have to use some of this faom roadbed for my layout. I already have a bunch of cork, so I’ll use that first.
I’m using the woodland scenics and i like it
Robert K–good advice, forgot to mention about the straight sections. I have so few straight sections on my Yuba Pass line (Sierra Nevada curves and all that) that I got carried away. Definitely use jumpers on the straight sections. Solder the curves.
Tom
You can use double-sided carpet tape to attach Woodland Scenics roadbed.
Thanks Robert, will keep that in mind. How do you attach your wire jumpers?
Pcc, that is a great idea (using the carpet tape).
Try to find the thinnest tape possible. Cut tape to width of roadbed. For tangent track, lay down 1/2 inch of tape for every 3 inches of roadbed. On curves, try 1/4 inch in a “W” formation around the curve. You may want to draw the outline of the roadbed as a guide.
Just make sure everything is aligned properly.
Hope this helps.
Just an added note:
If you have problems following a center line in the curves, you can easily seperate the WS foam in the middle and guide each piece along the side of the line. You need to use a few more tacks to hold it in place, but it makes for a good curve.
If using flex track, I always recommend using a track radius gauge for standard radii . You will be surprised at how far you can get off the radius by using your eyeball an using only the line for a reference.
REX
Rex–amen to that! Ribbonrail makes a really good radius gauge in everything from 18 to about 42" radii. Just put it between the rails, move slowly and tack. works like a charm and if you’re patient, it’s virtually kink-less. Don’t know what I’d have done without them on my railroad, since about the only straight trackage I have is in the yards.
Tom