Protecting Decals

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I recently lettered a Kadee PS-2 Covered hopper. I followed all the instructions for applying the decals, but I am now wondering if there is a final step I was supposed to do in order to protect the decals from getting scratched. I do not (yet) own an airbrush, so I need to be able to apply it without one. Thanks for your replies,

sfb

2

I use Dullcoat by Testors(I think).

3

Most of us give the finished model a shot of Testor’s Dullcote after decaling. It comes in spray cans, it’s a satin finish clear lacquer that blends the decal into the surface, it makes the decal film invisible. It also give the entire model a nice flat finish.

Note. Once upon a time I tried a satin finish spray can from the hardware store and the decals went all crinkly. I have stayed with DullCote ever since.

4

You may want to take another step prior to Dull-cote-ing. Many folks use some decal setting solution. Walthers, Micro-scale, and Champ (used to) make decal setting solution of varying strengths. It helps the decal settle over the entire surface and makes the decal film disappear. I usually go over it half a dozen times, it evaporates quickly. Then I Dull-cote it and weather.

5

Done that. Seems like what I need is Dullcote.

6

Microsol is a good starting point for setting decals to “snuggle” down. If something stronger is needed, then use Walther’s Solvaset. Use care w/ Solvaset, too much or allowed to puddle can wrinkle up the decal and/or some factory finishes can be affected as well. I will let the solvaset run down over the decal blotting up any excess if it gathers or pools on the already tilted model.

7

Technically, Dullcoat is a flat finish, not a satin finish. These clear oversprays come in flat, satin and gloss. I think Testors probably makes all three. If you want a fresh-from-the-shop look, like you would use for a well-maintained passenger train or trolley, then use the satin finish. For freight, though, go with the Dullcoat.

8

Is there a common product I could get at, say, Home Depot that would substitute for the dullcote?

9

Good question. If anyone knows of a good satin or flat clear spray that doesn’t crinkle up decals, please let us know.

10

Whatever you get, try it with a part of a decal that you will not need and on a surface that you can let be damaged without a problem.

Try a Krylon product; although I do not belive their Krylon Fusion comes in clearcoat. I use Krylon Acrylic clear to seal home made decals; that probably will also work for final surface protection as well.

11

In a word, no.

-Paul

12

I like Solvaset because it works fast with few repeat applications; but, as bogp40 says, use caution. As we say in Maine, it’s wicked strong!

There are a number of do’s and dont’s when using Solvaset:

  • Some instructions (including Cody’s article in the latest MR) say put a drop of Microsol where the decal will go and apply the decal. With Solvaset this would be a disaster. Solvaset quickly softens the decal film and you can not move it without damaging/destroying the decal - use a drop of water to help move the decal into place, then go with the Solvaset
  • Once the decal is in place apply the Solvaset with a small paintbrush. Start in the middle and work to the edges to work out trapped air bubbles, but be careful with the soft decal film. Add some around the edges so it will wick under the decal.
  • Tip the model to the side to allow excess solvent to run to the edge and let it soak into a paper towel or other kind of blotter. Do not touch the decal itself.
  • The decal probably will wrinkle shortly after Solvaset is applied; this is normal. It will flatten down after drying overnight. The key here is to NOT touch the decal until it is dry.
  • It is difficult to not touch the decals on the back side while handling the model to apply decals to the other side. It is best to decal one side, let the decals and Slovaset dry overnight, then do the other side. Does this sound like the voice of experience??? You bet!! [banghead]
  • Once the decals are dry overnight, examine them for air bubbles and places where the decal film has not settled around details on the mod
13

Of course, all the “experts’” that have replied, forget to mention that decals require a gloss finish to adhere to. Applying decals to a flat finish will result in silvering.

David B

14

For sealing decals there is another option that has worked well for me over the years.

After applying decals on top of a glossy surface using the procedural steps with Microset, then Microsol and allowing the usual drying time, I apply an Acrylic based semi-gloss or flat clear with my airbrush (medium size needle). Testors Acryl or Polly Scale clears work quite well and imho, go on more smoothly than the rattle can dull cote. You won’t have to worry about the possibility of wrinkling occurring when applying acrylic clears on top of lacquer, enamel, or alcohol based chemicals. But this is just my personal preference. [;)]

15

Don’t bother with Rustoluem Painter’s Touch Matte Clear (in the Ultra-Cover coverage).
I have tested it several times, following the instructions, and the finish was NOT matte/flat by any stretch of the imagination - also, the Ultra-Cover coverage I can see readily obscuring details (even a clear finish can obscure via a thick coating) - OTOH, I used a Ultra-Cover White to touch up my ‘prototype’ backyard door (had some scratches on it), and that worked great - so Ultra Cover coverage does work as intended, it’s just not intended for HO scale details…

16

Got some dullcote at the LHS the other day. I am waiting for the weather to cool off and for it to be less humid so I can do it out of doors.

17

Just did the dulcote. Thanks for all the help.

[bow]

sfb