Inability to shoot pictures - that wouldv’e been my excuse for not installing protective layout edge barriers on the high-risk stretches of main line track. But after reading yet another horror story about a train going over the edge, I figured I better stop procrastinating and cover my edges pronto![:O]
So for anybody who’s interested, here is what I did to keep my engines and rolling stock from taking the 48-inch swan dive during a derailment - while still getting decent views for layout photography.
First, I went to my local Home Despot and bought two sheets of thin plexiglas, 48"x36", then sliced these into 4"x48" strips:
[NOTE: Since plexiglas is such a tough material, I had to scratch-over each scoring line about 12-15 times to get a straight break - even then they didn’t always break smoothly. But I wasn’t too overly worried about physical beauty as long as they kept my DCC-and-sound-equipped locos from being turned into paperweights.]
I wanted to be able to quickly hang and/or remove the plexiglas sections easily, so I drilled several slip-over holes along the bottom edge of each strip:
Great Shot! If you’re going to take more, you might want to try a polarizing filter on your lens. It’s cheap, should remove most if not all of the reflections and , most important, would keep you from having to disassemble/assemble the plexiglass everytime you want to take a ‘ground-level’ pic.
Wow Terry, I never would’ve thought of that! I didn’t use slots in some of the staging areas where I never plan on shooting any pictures…may I better redo those?
Look for cracks near the holes; a lot depends on temperature changes. There are also special drill bits for plexiglass that cut a clean hole without melting the plastic or causing excessive stress. And if you want to bend some, just get one of those long thin 110V heater strips. Last, use only plexiglass cleaner to prevent scratches.
I checked the screw holes in my non-slit plexiglas and discovered there is plenty of ‘play’ [IOW not a super-tight fit], I just loosened the screws a tad - looks like I’m good-to-go now!
Your benchwork will move more w/ humidity changes than the plexi. Provided your layout isn’t in a Az garage w/ wild temp swings.
For a club setting where the barrier will see much abuse, we went with 1/8" lexan screwed to the facia w/ DW screws and trim washers. Thought the 1/8 was going to be too flimsy, but when visitors (children) try to pull on it it gives and only becomes a finger rest instead of a chin up bar. Lexan is much more flexable than regular plexi. The old club used plexi in 1/4", after time it developed cracks at the screws. Lexan will cut on a table saw w/ a good carbide or plywood blade. No need to do the score and snap. Home layouts don’t see this kind of abuse so plexi may be fine to use.
Bob K.
Good Idea Ken! I think if I go down that route and there is a good possibility (especially with all the horror stories I’m hearing) I may put the plexiglas on hinges, so they can swing up/down as needed.
I keep a mini-fridge under my workbench, perfectly convenient to just reach down and grab a cold Guiness as I’m building something.
I really do like the plexiglass idea, one of these days when I get going on the suburban and alpine segnements of my layout, I’ll have do use that idea. Thanks mate!
I dont care for deviding the observer from the action. I plan to have some runoff scenery between rails and edges. but I will use this solution in the hidden areas under the scenery.
I very much like the removable solution you came up with, but I would put a slot between the facia and the scenery and put slots instead of slide on holes on the shield. This way when you remove the shield the scew heads would not be seen and it would reduce the possibillty of snagging.It would probably look more finished too. Just a thought.[8D]
