Proto 1000 DCC Install

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Hey everyone…

Searched for “proto 1000 dcc” but came up with nothing in the forum… I hope someone out there can help.

Just rec’d my MRC Prodigy Advance in the mail and I’m going to install a DCC decoder into a Life-Like Proto 1000 B unit to see how things go before I hack up one of my steam engines :slight_smile:

I chose my dad’s proto b/c it was supposedly DCC ready… Well, it has the PCB in it, but no NMRA plug (must be too old of a unit)… anyway, I see to cut the traces at the X’s and saw another comment in the internet to be sure to check the bottom of the PCB for cut spots, too. BUT the loco came with no other dcc install instructions, and I’m a little unclear on which pins from my decoder to solder to which points on the PCB, and if there’s anything else I would need to do with the “A” unit (i.e. changing lights??? I see a lot of people that seem to change the lights out when installing DCC - is this necessary?). Has anyone installed DCC into a Proto1000 that is willing to offer some advice and/or instructions?

Thanks in advance!

Pete

2

None of the Proto 1000 have a plug - I guess that’s why they are Proto 1000 and not Proto 2000. My father in law has a pair of DL-109’s but I haven;t gotten around to putting a decoder int hem yet, nor have I really examined the circuit board to see exactly where things go.
But in general - the red decoder wire will go to something connected to the right (engineer’s side) rail, the black decoder wire will go to the left rail, the orange wire will go to motor + (which should be the same trace that WAS connected to the right rail before you cut where it says to cut), and the grey wire goes to the other motor terminal.
Bulbs will probably have to be repalced. Personally I prefer LEDs over light bulbs. Older units like the DL-109’s would get Golden WHite, a more modern unit might look better with Sunny White. Use a 1K 1/4 watt resistor with those LEDs. (one per LED - the DL-109 only has a headlight so 1 LED and resistor, but the GP and RS-2 have lights at both ends, so 2 LEDs and 2 reistors). The blue wire connects to BOTH lights, with LEDs this goes to the + terminal of both LEDs. The white wire goes to the front LED and the yellow wire to the rear. The resistor can be on either side of the LED, they don’t care about polarity.
Based on a quick view of the DL-109, I will probably just completely remove the Proto 1000 circuit board and solder the decoder wires to the existing wires. Probably easier in the long run.

–Randy

3

Here we go. Cut the X´s, nothing to cut underneath. Cut away the plug or aquire a female plug and solder the wires like this:

  • P1 - orange
  • P4 - red
  • P5 - gray
  • P6 - white
  • P7 - blue
  • P8 - black

The good news is that you don´t need to change the bulbs on the Proto 1000:s.
Hope this helps [:)]

4

Thanks Guys! We’ll give it a try.

Next after this one is an older Athearn diesel and an IHC 2-6-4 …

5

Do you have an online source for the LED’s ?

6

I buy the LEDs and (and decoders) from Bruce at Litchfield station. http://www.litchfieldstation.com

–Randy

7

Thanks for your help, everyone. With your expert advice, I didn’t blow anything up and my first DCC controlled loco works like a champ.

Next up, IHC 4-8-2 Pacific - installing an MRC syncro-steam dcc decoder.

Anyone have any words of wisdon to pass along on this one?

8

pete,
You may get some information from the following sites:
wiring for dcc and sask model trains and Model railroading with dcc
Ken