I have a Powerd A and B powerd Erie bulit engine. B unit has a higher coupler height than the A unit. I have used there stock horn couples, won’t make a turn. Used there stock kuncke coupler wont make a turn. Installed Caddee and same story.
On the 19 foot straight they do fine? My track still has 18" turns as of now. Is it the short turn or the coupler height? My E-6 will haul cars with no problem around the 18" turns, but hooked up the Erie Bulit B and same thing?
I am 90% sure it is the tight turns. Have sort of ran into the same thing I should have never bought riverioss passanger cars. After I cleaned up all the trucks, added Proto 2000 wheels they roll like a dream, but the FP-45 Am Track engines cannot haul them around a 18" turn. But, a Athearn F-7 super power will take them around the track with no problems.
So is it the turn or coupler height? For ther heeck of it I glued the horn hooks togather so I can run the darn things.
Cuda Ken
Do you really mean couple height, as in how high they are above the rails? They should be all the same - and match the kadee coupler height gauge. If you don’t have one get one. Having couplers at the proper height will go a long way towards reliable operation.
However, I suspect you mean the length of the coupler shank. A longer shank coupler will put the two units further apart, less prototypical, but better able to negotiate tight curves. The Erie-Builts are large units though - you might be able to make them silly tinplate-style and go around 18" radius curves, but otherwise, this is probably the issue. The long length, plus body-mounted couplers, means one unit is trying to shove the other off the rails on the curves. Same issue with the passenger cars.
–Randy
I am talking about the height of the couplers not how long they are. I need to get the Kadee tool for checking the height, but one thing at a time.
Funny thing I had the same problem with a Atheran F-7 A and B. B unit height was taller than the A. B was a dummy, I swapped out the chassis of a power A and couplers match fine?
Thanks for the answer.
Cuda Ken
If the couplers are at different heights, you’ll have problems every time. I see that you had the same problem I had with an Athearn F7A-B set. Instead of changing out the frames, I put in a top shank coupler which made the couplers even. End of problem.
Not that you need any more on your plate, but if they are the metal chassis blue box Athearn locos then you do not want to be using the usual #5 couplers which are all metal. The metal chassis is grounded to one rail via the wheel pickups. If you set the units back to back (not so obvious with an A and a B, obvious with 2 A units), then the opposite rails will be grounded to the two frames, and there will be a short through the coupler. Usually it’s fairly hig resistence - leading to some odd operation, rather than just having the two units sit there and trip the circuit breaker.
Kadee makes all the common couplers (straights, underset, and overset) with plastic shanks for such purposes. The coupler istself is still metal, just the shank is plastic. The ‘other way’ to handle this involces a bit of filing, a number 5 coupler in its own box, and a nylon screw or two. The plastic shank couplers are easier.
–Randy