Hey all, just wanted some opinions on the RDC’s that proto makes, im looking to get two in Amtrak and just wondered how they run? Do they look close to the real thing? Are they quiet? Any info is appreciated!
Thanks!
They run well.
They do look close to certain Phases of RDC production.
They are not particularly quiet, but they aren’t terrible.
They are heavy, and even tho’ only one truck is powered, can pull better than some switchers. The RDC-2’s had a bad paint job on them…they tried to make the silver shiny but it came out rather sparkly, instead. These were changed to plain silver paint on the RDC-1’s and RDC-3’s. The RDC-1’s have tinted windows to try to hide the motor and flywheel, while the -2’s and -3’s have clear windows. An interior is included, and figures can be added.
DCC conversion involves soldering to the circuit board and cutting three traces on the board. A simple DH123D works well for this. Also, you might want to fold up a small piece of tinfoil and tape it to the bottom of the shell over each headlight if you convert to DCC. The bulbs, when left on, can actually melt the shell.
If improperly MU’d in DCC, it’s possible to snap the RDC drive shaft (it’s very, very small). Spares were available from LL, now Walthers.
Paul A. Cutler III
Weather Or No Go New Haven
My compliments to you, Paul, on a comprehensive reply.
Thanks.
-Crandell
I wasn’t aware of the issues of MU’ing them. I have two but haven’t run them together since converting to DCC. Definatley something make sure to be aware of now though, thanks!
Sounds like sticking with the good ole Athearn Model. Very simple Rubber Band drive. NO MU problems with that.
James
Thanks Paul3 for the paint info on the RDC 2’s. I wondered why my paint job looked so bad. I like mine but did have to send one back because it howeled like a banshee. Walters did fix it but it did take a while but that was when they had just taked over Life Like. Phil
I just bought some of the RDC 3’s from Trainworld for $10 apiece. I plan on reselling them. [:D]