Hi, folks, is this a myth? I bought a HO Proto 1000 RS-2 (Proto 31279, New Haven #0509) on ebay. It was sold as new old stock (the seller had two for sale) and was obviously un-opened, but when I put it on the track the lights light up, the motor tries to turn, but it does not move.
I contacted the seller who replied: “I have been told by prior customers that a plastic “block” of some sort is installed at the factory & must be removed.”
I have examined it carefully, and can see no obvious plastic block, and it is not mentioned on the operating instructions. One web source suggests that a problem with these units if unused for a long time is that the grease in the axle boxes might have solidified, and the solution is to dismantle the drive train and soak the components in hot water. I don’t want to do that if there is a simpler explanation / remedy.
TIA,
Bill.
I’m not aware of any block. Mine didn’t have any.
However, opening up the gearbox, cleaning it and lubing it with fresh grease is a good place to start looking for the issue. The grease tends to get gummy and hardens sitting on the shelf and this may be the problem.
Now that I have my coffee…[|)][swg]
Yes, it’s quite possible the grease has hardened. Basically, you turn the loco upside down and pop the cover off the bottom of the truck. The wheelsets can then be lifted out. Usually it’s the grease in the bottom of the gear train that’s the problem, so I wouldn’t disassemble anything further at this point. Clean things up as best you can, doesn’t need to be perfect. When re-greasing, use a plastic-compatible grease. Reinstall the wheelsets, paying attention to the orientation and insulation on the wheelsets so they match how they came out.
Bill, more than likely it is the dried grease.
My self, I take the shell off and turn the motor by hand and see if anything binds. While I understand you not wanting to take a new engine apart the Proto’s 1000 engine are pretty simple. If you still don’ want to take the trucks apart, add a little oil and turn the motor by hand till the greases starts to break up in the trucks.
Then try running the engine and see what happens. Repeat till the engine is running like it should. As a rule, the PK 1’s run great!
Cuda Ken
Bill, I had exactly the same problem recently with a P1K RS2 that ran fine when I got it (used) but didn’t run after a lengthy time in storage. I ended up disassembling the trucks and cleaning off the gears, and ultimately replacing an axle gear that had started binding. The upside is it runs like a champ now and was very much worth the TLC needed to get it going.
Jim
Hi, Folks, for info I solved the problem by turning the motor by hand by light finger pressure on the flywheel until I had achieved one full rotation of the wheels. I then put it on the track and it ran like a dream. Thus encouraged, I tried this on an Atlas RS-3 which also lit up but did not run, and that too now runs perfectly.
Thanks for all the advice,
Bill.
As a post script, that plastic block that the seller was referring to is probably the two plastic blocks that ship with a Proto 2000 diesel. They are often connected to the chassis with the coupler screws and have to be removed before operating the loco.
Rich
Glad you got it working!
One thing to watch for with the Proto RS2s is that, like the early four-axle Geeps, they are somewhat prone to cracked axles gears.
Both of mine developed this after a few years’ running. They take the same axle gear replacement as the early P2K diesels, the Athearn SD40-2 axle.