Just got two of these, on sale from Walther’s(first items I’ve ever ordered from them). The issue–how do you get their factory placed couplers out? The coupler box appears to be completely molded to the body–removing the retaining screw did nothing–there’s no lid there to slip off to remove the coupler so that I can put my Kadee 148 in. I’m a newb, as I always say and have the feeling I’m probably missing something, but I couldn’t see a way to get the coupler out.
Jim
This is my first bump, but as my post got buried quickly the other day when I posted it, would like to ask again. In the meantime, I e-mailed Walthers to get their view, but haven’t heard back from them yet, either.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim,
I’m not an expert, but I do own plenty of those hoppers. If you removed the screw from the coupler box, the lid usually stays in place as it is a tight fit to the box. I’ve had success in holding the coupler and giving it a gentle twist towards the truck to ‘pop’ the lid off of the coupler box. Another option would be to use a micro-screwdriver and slide the blade into the box along the shank of the coupler and pry the lid off of the coupler box.
I hope this helps.
Don Z.
Don:
I’ll have to look again when I get home, but I’m pretty sure there is no lid on the box–i.e. the coupler box is all molded together as a single unit–I didn’t see any seam in it at all. Could be I’m all wet here, but I think I even popped on my Opti-visor to have a closer look and didn’t see any seam/lid to pop off.
Jim
Jim,
I just went to my train room and pulled a hopper from its box to check for you. It is exactly as I described - remove the screw and twist the coupler a little bit and the lid will pop off. The lid actually fits down in between the vertical walls of the coupler box, so the seam is very hard to see.
Don Z.
Jim,
You might have the kits, the RTR available now are different. I just kept the knuckle couplers that came with them.
Mike in Tulsa
BNSF Cherokee Sub