Well my N&W Y3 arrived today. Unfortunately it took quite the beating during shipping from Pennsylvania to California(thanks a lot UPS). I have a broken drawbar and cab. How may I go about ordering replacements? Life-Like has long been gobbled up by Walthers. Also, the original owner replaced the tender with one from the Rivarossi Y6B. How should I get around to inserting the tender PCB from the P2k into the Rivarossi?
You can get drawbar replacements from Walthers depending on how lucky you are.
The PCB should be a standard JST plug, search on ebay for “6 pin micro JST” and you should find some similar items. No way to know for sure.
Honestly, if I were you, Id return the item. That engine sounds like a nightmare. Those drawbars that LL used are a nightmare to repair/replace. Coupled with broken cab, and a mismatched tender, youre looking for one heck of a time!
PS a working proto 2000 drawbar will not connect to a Rivarossi tender. Rivarossi use a hole and pin system whereas Proto 2000 used a snap fit clamp IIRC.
Good luck either way!
Charles
While I’m up for a challenge, Charles is unfortunately right!
If it still has the original Proto 2000 coupler, and that the coupler is the same arrangement as the one I had to replace on my Heritage 2-10-2. I had to virtually strip the engine right down to do the replacement.
That said, could you provide a photo because I’m wondering what butchery modification was done for the Rivarossi tender to work, if it actually did!
Cheers, the bearer of bad tidings Bear.[:(]
Send it back, sounds like a rip off and a problem to me.
Sheldon
I’ll make that 4 for 4. Return it and be done with it.
I wouldn’t blame UPS for this. How well was the loco packaged? I have had nothing but good experience with UPS.
Rich
Just exactly how was this listed and sold? As a project? Where is ‘the tender PCB from the P2K’ if not already mounted and connected?
I’d certainly pursue this with eBay Concierge but it’s likely to depend on what the seller indicated in the listing. I’d also file a claim ASAP with UPS about the damage – don’t throw away any of the packaging before they resolve that.
Return this locomotive, if required add some amount and buy another one, there are many now listed on eBay, either pre-owned or even brand new (brand new available for 350 USD).
Original drawbar is very complicated because it uses “close coupling cinematic system” usually applied on European models, i.e. not easy to duplicate, and even if it is not broken, it cannot be used with RR tender.
Hrvoje
You are taking cost out of the eqision, if it was cheap enough then great project, if not then send it back.
Think of it this way, Ive seen those engines sell used-like new for around $160-200 non-dcc sound.
Assuming your engine also has no DCC/sound, and has a broken drawbar and cab, Id value it at around $75. I wouldnt pay any more than $90 for that.
Of couse, I am cheap 
Charles
I got it for 200 + 23 shipping + 18 tax. I have been considering mounting an all weather cab(I have a freelanced road) and possibly getting the frame from the original tender, and cutting up the Rivarossi tender shell to fit.
I’ve seen them sell for 180-350!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cpyYNebWQgFPQhW26This is what it was packed in and the detail parts also in there
If it was described as being in “good running condition”, for sure you should consider returning.
Of course, you could be the stubborn type like me and see this as a challenge. The full-weather cab idea kinda settles the broken cab debate. For the drawbar, because it was adapted to a Rivarossi, getting an “original” part might not be the best solution. Can you post a picture? Is it just the bar or the connecting parts that broke? Maybe you can make another one.
Simon
Description on ebay:
Norfolk and Western N&W Y5 2-8-8-2 HO Project based on Proto 2000. Condition is “Used”. Shipped with USPS Priority Mail. I started but never finished a project to kit bash a N&W Y5 2-8-8-2. They have only been available in Brass. Y5’s had 22,000 gallon tenders with plain bearing Buckeye trucks, which are included. I was going to detail this as a hump duty loco as used in Roanoke, but never got to it. DC currently. here is the link to the damage photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/TZAYy7yZ1RTPyeLx8 |
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Cab fixable.
I enjoy a challenge as much as the next, but not when ive paid $200 for an engine!
And yes, obviously some sell for more, Ive seen some sold for $350! My price range was to say how low you can generally get them for.
The cab is fixable. Id just make a new drawbar with some brass sheet and a drill. Its certainty possible to fix but personally Id get my $200 back.
Let us know how it turns out either way!
Charles
The cab damage does not look too bad. The sides, which are the most visible parts seem to be intact.
-Kevin
How do I fix the cab? I am missing some of the fragments of the front side
Steven, send the pictures to the seller via eBay and ask for a partial refund based on the damages in shipping that could have been avoided if it was properly packaged for shipment.
I had a run of three consecutive locomotives I bought on eBay that all arrived damaged. I was able to get full or fair partial refunds on all of them.
Glue together what you have, and fill with putty. Sand smooth and paint to match.
-Kevin
Any reccomended putty? I don’t have much experience building models with anything except cement. Also, about how much should i ask for a refund?