Hi again, just looking for a rating of these Proto 2000 model.
Onrman,
The Proto 2000 S1s are terrific little switchers. They run extremely well at low speed and the detailing is beautiful.
The only issue you have to watch out for is if you want to add a decoder to your S1. Even though the box says “DCC-ready”, it isn’t. Before adding a decoder you will need to isolate the motor from the frame, which isn’t that complicated of a procedure. Also, since there isn’t much room under the hood, you’ll want to use a somewhat small (i.e. an N- or Z-scale) decoder for the installation.
Hope that helps…
Tom
Or you can file the weight and put a Digitrax DH163L0 in there, and not change the light bulbs. But really, I test fit it and I think a TCS T1 will fit with no modifications. I avoid micro-size and smaller scale decoders when possible because they always cost more.
Mine have always been great runners, more than worth what I paid for them (one I got on eBay for $20 - NIB). Super detailed, too, right down to the safety chains on the trucks. I would definitely rate these higher than the same locos from Atlas - but what in the world possessed LifeLike to do the SAME road numbers for the Reading ones that Atlas already used. Limited options, since there were only 4, but still…
–Randy
Another happy customer. I originally put a Digitrax 123 into mine, with no problems. I swapped the long-hood headlight for a LED. Then, I was so disappointed by the silly arrangement of the cab-end light through the plastic “light pipe” that I removed it and put a LED right in the cab where it should have been in the first place.
Last year, I decided to go all out, and I had my LHS install sound. I have yet to remove the hood from the engine to see how they did it, because there’s hardly any space there, but it sounds great and still runs very, very well.
You won’t be disappointed by this engine. They are great.
I’m very pleased with the two that I have - excellent detailling and great slow speed running.
After removing the body weight I managed to fit a QSI Revolution sound decoder into it. Here’s a short video showing the end result with my NYC S1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ylk4oag6Pe8&feature=channel_page
Jon
Yeah, I’ll bet there are some people who are foolhardy enough to want to go through all that trouble of cutting and filing to put in a decoder that isn’t designed to fit the loco.
All of my DCC-equipped Life-Like Alco switchers have Digitrax DN143IP decoders in them. They just plug right into the 8 pin socket - no cutting or filing necessary.
I did it just to prove it could be done, and because I didn;t feel like changing the bulbs. Any other decoder, you need 14-16v bulbs or LEDs to repalce the low voltage bulbs.
My new one is getting the stock circuit board removed and a TCS T1 hard wired in, because a) it fits b) it’s cheap c) they run better than Digitrax decoders.
Don’t forget the new orange wire needed from the bottom of the motor - failure to do this is asking for fried decoder in the event of a derailment. I’ll just take the orange wire off the TCS harness and sodler that to the motor. Piece of kapton tape for safety and done.
–Randy
I agree with tstage, you have a little work to do to trully isolate the motor.
I have a Loksound micro in mine, and it is one of my best performers, It even gets “requests” from operators on return visits.
Never a problem with amp draw, always good pickup, no weight filing, micro speaker fits right in place of fuel tank, decoder fits in place of light board. Excellent slow speed. Did have to drill bottom of frame to keep motor from grounding and did have to replace lights.