I BOUGHT A PROTO 2K G38-2 LAST WEEKEND AND WOULD LIKE TO PUT A DECODER IN IT. I’VE TAKEN THE FRONT AND BACK SCREWS OUT BUT IT STILL WON’T COME APART. ANY IDEAS? I’M AFRAID TO PRY ON IT ANYMORE THAN I ALREADY HAVE. HELP[:D]
PLEASE DON’T POST IN ALL CAPS. It’s a bit annoying.
But to answer your question, you probably have to remove the couplers and coupler boxes. I have a P2K GP9 that requires them to be removed in order to remove the body.
Also, you may need to take the plow off if you installed one. The removal of the coupler will be easier.
There are probable two flat head screws that attached the body to the frame, it’s around the fuel tank.
There are also two screws that attached the weight to the frame around the same area.
I’ve already removed the couplers and tried taking out the two screws by the fuel tank to no avail. Any other helpful hints? Thanks
i have a similar problem, only with an Athearn. its a C44-9W that i bought yesterday from a friend. the problem is is that its leaning towards one side drastically. when its coming down the straight sections of my track all the cars are centered while this engine is off center. i had a similar problem with one of my cars and just tightened the couplers and re-adjusted the wheels on the loco. i tried taking off the shell of the loco. i unscrewed the couplers but i couldn’t get the shell off. i didn’t want to break the hand rails either so i just quit and put everything back to gether.
what is up with that loco?
about the P2K, you might have to take off the gas tank and unscrew some screws under that, also take the couplers off. i believe there are screws under the gas tank, i have to GP7s. that is my advice.
There’s no screws under the fuel tank. This things really got me baffled.
piemandan64,
Did your P2K come with a drawing of an explode view of the locomotive? Should have. Did you get it brand new or used? If new, check the inside of the box. The drawing should be there.
Tom
Those screws are motor mount screws.
Look above the trucks.there should be two screws.
As said above DON’T unscrew the motor - the screws can be difficult to see hiding behind the trucks. I have also found the body jambed over the tight fit of the weight. Use care when prying the air tank pins are fragile. The SD-7/9s have a completly different body mount(the worst of all P2Ks) remove plows/ pilots then hunt for the 6 Kato style clips @ frame/ hood connection. The later GP-7/9s rely on the coupler boxes only to hold the shell (use care not to break the pilot mounted detail for the cut lever bar directly above the buffer plate(coupler box). The “E” units and SWs are obvious. Later/ newer SDs are mounted the same w/ the Bachman type screw method as already described for your engine. If in doubt DON’T force. I hope this helps.
Bob K.
When I have problems with my Prtot 2k I call Life like in Baltimore Ohio
Bob
Hmmm, the last time I visited Baltimore, it was in Maryland. When did they move it? [;)]
Now, to the question of removing the P2K shell: Look for two, probably Phillips head, small screws under each truck. A jeweler’s screwdriver is going to be needed because these are very small. The problem is that P2K has used different assembly techniques over the years, and your model may not be built this way. If the screws are not there, they might be under the fuel tank on the sides of the locomotive.
The two screws under the trucks were the solution. I had seen them but figured the more obvious ones were the ones I needed to remove. So much for logical thinking. Took out the two “hidden” screws and it slipped right apart.
Thanks guys!!
HAPPY RAILS TO YOU…