I have several Proto locos I’ve collected over the years,all of which were purchased new. I got the Athearn gears for the 6 axle locos #60024. My question ,what kind of adhesive should I use to prevent slippage, or do they fit tight enough to hold ? After disassembling one of the trucks(removing cover) I found the wheel/axles to be two pieces , I had assumed (oh OH) they were 1 piece. If I ca axles into gears, it would be impossible to repair unit again ,if needed. Any tips, thoughts would be appreciated,thanks in advance.
The wheels just press into the gears they don’t have to be glued. If they are loose you got bad gears.
Bob
Thanks, Bob, that’s what I figured, but it allways helps to have a little input from Someone who has experience. Is this setup used in Kato & Atlas as well ? Or do they use a 1 piece axle ?
From what I have seen they are all 2 pieces, not that I have had ever type of HO engine made. Make sure you check the wheel gauge when assembling them.
Cuda Ken
Some Atlas U33C locomotives I have do not use the same gear – the Atlas gear is cast onto the axle.
While you’re replacing the Proto gears would be a good time to also replace the wheels with NWSL’s.
Replacing the gears is very easy. Just pull the wheels from the broken gears, press the wheels into the new gears. Use your fingers, with the wheel on a flat surface. Once the axle is assembled, make sure the gear is not tight against either axle bearing and be sure to check the wheel spacing using your NMRA gage. Now is a good time to wipe out all the old grease and re-lube with plastic compatible grease.
I use a file turned on it’s side and put in a vice. I then put the axle portion that goes into the gear on that side while holding a second file on it’s side so that I get the axle trapped between the two file sides. I then put pressure and roll the axle. This creates burrs on the axle which help it get grip inside of the gear. It’s also not permanent and can be removed as the burrs run lengthwise to the axle and so can be slid in and out a few times(don’t do it many times or you will enlarge the ID of the gear). It also allows for adjustments in gage. The direction of the burrs also provide good resistance to the gear as it provides rotational force.
As I recall that Athearn gear has less area for the axles to be inserted, meaning narrower. If that’s the case, you might want to call Walthers and try to get the OEM gear. I’ve had to do that, but still used the files.
Richard
WHY? I have about 50 Proto2000 locos, most are models effected by the “gear problem”. All have been replaced with parts from LifeLike and/or Walthers and they work fine. Not one replacement axle set has failed.
In fact I have used Proto wheel sets to upgrade my Athearn Blue Box locos that still had the iorn wheels.
Sheldon
As usual, lots of ideas, thanks. Loco is reassembled, but now runs erratic at slow speeds, what is the conductive grease called that is available at the auto parts stores, is this dielectric grease? I’m thinking it’s not making good contact through the axle bearings, any ideas ?
Sounds like it’s time to “clean” the wheels, as for lubricants I only use LaBelle, for one thing it does NOT inhibit electrical conductivity.
Just clean those wheels really well first…
Mark
Another overlooked source of plastic-compatible lube is automatic transmission fluid. A quart costs 4 bucks and lasts 15 years.
Bronze axle bushing/bearing was binding, sometimes it’s easy to overlook the obvious. I lubed the gears with Labelle 106 . These are some smooth runners & well worth the repair time.The detail on the P2K’s are very nice, lot;s of factory applied details. Thanks to All that responded to post.