Sounds similar to their USRA 0-8-0 switcher - a smooth runner, but had trouble pulling its own shadow around. I added weight to mine, enough to double its pulling power, but this involved disassembly, some work with a hacksaw, and some lead casting, too. [swg]
(I just posted a response to this in your other recent post by mistake…aagh!.. It’s gone now.)
Don, all I can do is to offer my commiseration, and to add that I am disappointed in your observation. I had hoped that it was only their smaller steamers in that series that had the light feet.
I have the Heritage 0-8-0 switcher and am very happy with it. It does its job flawlessley, a great at slow speeds, perfect little switcher. It stays in the yard and off the mainline and any grades.
I was aware of some grumblings with the Heritage Mallet but thought the Berk would be ok, I wish now I had waited until the Bachmann Berkshire was available but that will not likely be till after Christmas and wanted a new main line engine now.
I will retire the Berk and go back to the Spectrum 2-6-6-2 as my mainline freight, which is a great engine in its own right. Certainly far better than the Heritage Berk.
Ahhhhh grasshopper, not all is exactly to 1:87 scale!!! Pulling traction for real Berk vs Proto model, or BLI is not exact. Now lets see, 87 freight cars in REAL life pulled by a Berkshire a1 equates to…in HO scale? And the typical long drag of those days was how many freight cars …?
The reason that I needed mine to pull better was because the only yards that I have are staging yards, where the 0-5-0 is the switcher of choice. The 8414 is currently switching an industrial area, with plenty of curves, a couple of fairly steep grades, and generally long cuts of cars to handle. There’s no way that two light cars on a curving grade would’ve convinced me to keep this loco - I might have had to dieselise! [:O][swg] On flat, straight track, the stock unit would’ve be adequate for most of my switching needs.
The last run of the P2K Berkshires included a Traction tire in the box to be installed. You must have an early model if you do not have the optional traction tire.
If this is an early run engine then I would assume that the traction tire driver would be a drop in fit and hopefully something a novice can do.
Otherwise there is the hassle of sending the unit off for installation and of course the worst part the waiting that follows and of course then there is the aspect of damage during transit.
This is a premium priced engine, in fact I paid substantially more for this engine than a BLILight 2-8-2 that pulls great, had sound and runs great.
CAZEPHYR is correct that the recent run of Berkshires come with an optional traction driver. It is a simple drop-in procedure. You can take heart that mine will pull 20 reefers up my 1.8% helix with no problems! Combine this with great detail, flawless performance (mine will begin creeping at a Digitrax throttle setting of “1”) and great factory installed sound and you have an excellent locomotive. I’m sure you can get that driver from Walther’s (p2K) parts department. Good luck!
The first run of P2K Berkshires had the drivers without the proper tires and the drivers looked out of place. The second set had proper tires on the wheels, but no traction tires.
The last run all have the traction tire in the box, and these engines will pull fairly well. The web site below shows one of my last run S3’s with the new drivers. There is no way of knowing for sure if they are identical to the first or second run, but chances are, they will work.
It is too bad that the traction tire option isn’t avail for the older runs.
I too have one in PM and it has very little pulling power.
I quess the only option would be to add weight. So has anyone successfully done this and just how much added tractive effort is gained after all the work.
Hm–hearing this again about P2K steamers. I have an early 0-8-0–correction, I HAD an early 0-8-0, until I accidentally lost it back into its box in the garage where it’s been sitting the past several years. I also have a 2-8-8-2 USRA that needs something to either pull or push it up a 2% grade with ANY kind of load.
They’re beautifully detailed, crawl like a snail and are absolutely WORTHLESS as prime pullers. I have heard that the newer models all have traction tires to improve their pulling power, but after two of those overpriced and underpowered steamers, I have decided that P2K (say it fast, it sounds like a sneeze) are the New Brass for those who are still convinced that Brass is only to be put on a mantlepiece and looked at, never run. In fact, I’ll trade a brass collector, loco for loco if they want–at least I’ll be getting something that will PULL!
Not much of a chance of that Cliff!! I’ve called Walthers a couple of times looking for the traction wheel set for my Heritage 2-8-8-2’s. The first time I recieved a very curt “NO and we don’t plan on selling them either”!! The second time the person was more polite but the message was still the same. Good luck.
I don’t have one of these locos, but I did add weight to my Proto 0-8-0, as noted earlier. The techniques that I used were similar to the method I used to increase the tractive effort of the Athearn Mikado. You can check it out HERE .
I have 2 of the proto 0-6-0’s with DCC / Sound and 2 of the 0-8-0’s with DCC / Sound.
One of my 0-8-0’s is from an older run and did not have the traction tires or DCC / Sound (I installed a Tsumani in it)
Without the traction tires, these beautiful engines have a hard time pulling their own tenders around. With the traction tire installed though, each of them will easily pull 20 cars.
We just had an open house at our club and I had set up my newest 0-8-0 with DCC / Sound on a siding that is rarely used. I had her set up with 10 cars and a caboose. I ran her up and down the siding all weekend long with no problems. It was actually a huge crowd pleaser. veryone seemed to like it.