Proto locos, how hard to add dcc?

Model Railroader Electronics and DCC
1

I am looking at purchasing a proto sw9 that is not currently dcc ready. How hard are they to install a plug/receiver for dcc? does anyone have any tips? I have wired 3 athearn blue box units so far.

2

As for putting in a plug I have no idea but I know there’s not much room in there. I hardwired a Digitrax DZ125 decoder into mine and it runs fine.

3

Tips…

  1. Take a MultiMeter and make sure the motor isnt touching the frame.

  2. Wire up decoder as per usual.

Seriously, if you have already wired 3 BBs, you are set, it doesnt get much more complicated then that.

David B

4

I’d agree with David. Once you’ve done a few of them, the only issue (as Jeffrey pointed out) is how to squeeze the decoder in.

I’ve got a Proto S1, which I’d imagine is pretty similar inside. I put in a DH123, which is a larger decoder than the DZ. It really wasn’t a problem. While I was in there, though, I got rid of the wimpy incandescent bulbs and replaced them with LEDs. The cab-end bulb, in particular, was useless as designed. It was a weak bulb to begin with, and they mounted it right over the motor, and used a plastic “light pipe” to get the light to the end of the cab. Needless to say, if you looked closely in the dark, you might see a bit of a glow, but that was it. I replaced it with a LED actually mounted in the roof of the cab, and was much happier with that arrangement.

5

NCE has the sw9 decoder that uses the factory bulbs and contacts in the hood. Fairly easy to instal.

Pete

6

What Pete said. That’s the decoder of choice for this loco. I have some pictures of this but unfortunately they never got uploaded to my web site. The NCE SW9-SR is designed to make it easy to solder a white LED in for the headlight (the resistor is already on the decoder) and it has a second resistor already on the decoder to safely run the existing rear light bulb which is stuffed up inside the cab. The wires fromt he stock circuit board attach to the decoder in the same relative position as they did on the stock board, so it’s not hard to figure out. One of the easier solder-in installations. The NCE board even has a slot to hook over the mounting peg used by the original board.

–Randy

7

Thanks for all the input. I have heard they are great running unit, but have not bought one yet. I have switched all my head lights over to LEDs. That is a no brainer as far as proper lighting the loco. Thanks again.

John