I just received my first Proto (or any maker) Diesel engine, its a S1, anyway, I just installed a Lenz decoder and it runs great only problem is I can’t get the shell on. How do you tell the front of the chassis from the back of the chassis and is it possible the decoder is too big to fit inside the shell. I’ve had the decoder for a couple of years and I don’t remember which one its is. The shell seems to almost fit is there a trick to it or I’m I just inept?
I’ve got 3 of these Proto 2000 “S” type switchers. All converted to DCC and LED’s installed for headlights. I didn’t attempt to put an LED in the back-up light. What decoder did you install? I used the MC2P-S1 and it fit fine.
Michael
Guys,
Just wanted to check. You didn’t just plug the decoder into the socket. You did follow the instrctions on Randy Rinker’s site, right?
Yes, I just plugged the decoder in. The decoder’s not the problem I’m just having a little trouble getting the shell to fit on.
Willist,
It may very well be that the Lenz decoder you installed is too large. There isn’t really a whole lot of extra room under the shell. Some folks hog out a space for the decoder. (See rrinkers Digitrax DH163 decoder install pictoral into his Proto S1 for an example.)
I went the easier route and used a Lenz LE0521W Micro (N-scale) decoder in mine. It’s about a 1/4 the size of a postage stamp so the shell seats fine without having to hog out any of the chassis. (Size: 0.51"L X 0.36"W X 0.14"H) The LE0521W also has Back EMF so the S1 can really crawl! (It’s not silent-running though.)
Willist, if you haven’t already, replace the anemic incandescent headlight bulb that comes with the Proto S1 with a golden-white LED. You’ll need to solder in a 750K resistor. Boy! Does it really improve the output of the headlight.
Tom
I think the decoder I installed is a Lenz 1024, or at least thats whats printed on a small yellow label stuck on the decoder.
Willist,
I take it that the Lenz LE1024 is an HO decoder. If it is, the physical size may be an issue. I don’t think the LE1024 is manufactured anymore either.
Tom
You can either do it exactly like I did, with a Digitrax DH163L0 and keep the bulbs, or repalce the bulbs with LEDs and resistors and use just about any of the smaller decoders, in which case you would remove all of the existing circuitry and socket, leavign plenty of room. A big ‘economy’ type HO decoder will still be too big though. Look at the TCS web site for another couple options
–Randy
Let me guess - it gets down almost all the way, but you can’t get it to close down that last eighth of an inch, right?
It still may be that the decoder is too big, but I suspect that you are mis-aligning the shell and frame right in the center of the engine. There are 2 holes for screws in the frame, and these match up to the threaded sections of the shell. It’s not simply a flush connection, though. I forget which way it goes, but either the shell has to fit into a recess of the frame, or the other way around. I think the shell has a small threaded cylinder which extends into a hole in the frame. Once you get that part lined up, it slides together. You need to squeeze or expand the shell until it all slips into place.
By the way, did you isolate the motor from the frame? This supposedly DCC ready engine has a frame-grounded motor, which might cause problems. I think the front headlight, at least, also uses frame ground for one side.