Thanks for the information everyone.[:D] My T-1 has a fully exposed firebox, so I’ll paint it a dark graphite. I use a 50/50 mix of Floquil Graphite and Scalecoat II MOW Gray for my other recent steam engine projects, like the Mikado in my signature. I’m thinking I’ll use something closer to a 60/40 or 70/30 mix for the T-1, and then use Scalecoat II Brunswick Green for the rest (and black for the frames and trucks). I like the color of Scalecoat’s paint, because I can actually see a little bit of green in it. The other brands have always looked like either a dirty black or just straight black to me.
Sounds like you have a winner.
I remember seeing your pictures when you built the kit for the L1. How does it run and is it hard to build. I have rebuilt brass and have resistance soldering, but never worked with the die cast metal models.
I would not mind having a L1 if it runs well after it is done so I thought I would ask if it is a good running model. \
Thanks
CZ
Since I got the Deluxe kit, it wasn’t a very difficult build. The castings for it were some of the cleanest I’ve worked with on a Bowser kit. The modifications I made complicated things a little more, but it’s more just time consuming than difficult. The Bowser steam engines are very well engineered and run smoothly when built properly and broken-in for an extended period (Bowser recommends running for “hours in each direction”). The stock motor and gears are very smooth running and draw fairly low current, but their speed is a little high and they’re not as quiet as other modern steam engines (mine is a silent runner because of the coreless motor and NWSL gearbox [:D]). I haven’t tried soldering to die-cast metal before, but Bowser talks about it in their building tips, so I’m sure it can be done.
Bowser isn’t currently making any of their kits, but since their L-1 is the only one available outside of brass, it may make a comeback sooner than their other kits. If you can get one, I think you’d have fun with it.[:D] You can see the instructions in PDF format at Bowser’s website: http://bowser-trains.com/holocos/l1/l1.htm
Thanks for the reply and information. I probably would not try to solder die-cast but use the same type of glue that you used. I will have to look around and see if any kits are available. The coreless motor would be a natural and the NWSL gearbox sounds like the way to go. Did you have to replace the main gear and requarter the driver to use the NWSL gearbox? I have several Westside gear boxes left over from other modifications but it probably would be better to purchase new items for a new project.
I did have to replace the main gear on the drivers. Bowser sort of squares off the axle where the wheel is mounted, so requartering is easier than easy.[:D] Unfortunately, the squared end of the axle also makes it a little difficult to mount the gear straight. I don’t have the proper equipment for pressing things onto axles perfectly straight, so it took a few tries to get the gear aligned (and I glued it in place once it was straight).
Bowser does occasional runs of kits when they get enough orders. I don’t know how long they’ll do it, though.
Bowser has also made the E-6 and G-5 steam engines, which I would expect to be of the same quality as the L-1. Parts of the L-1’s detail won’t quite measure up to your brass and BLI as is, but it isn’t too hard to modify or scratchbuild the appropriate parts.
Technically the decals aren’t supposed to “bond” to the paint. To get a decal to “snuggle down” to the surface, it’s generally best after painting the engine or car to apply a coat of gloss or semi-gloss finish. Decals work better on that smooth surface than on the relatively rough surface of typical flat paint. Sometimes you may still need to take a sharp single-edged razor blade and slice thru the bubbles in the decal and then apply another coat of Solvaset or Decal-Set. I usually do several coatings of Solvaset over the course of a couple of days before sealing in the decals with flat finish, to be sure they’re really laying flat.
Of course, I assume you applied a coat of primer first?? I’ve used a red colored zinc-chromate primer on metal engines that seems to work well. It seems to bind to the metal better than gray primer designed more for wood or plastic models.
Effingham was my hometown also, my dad was Hubert L. Mankin PRR and Penn-Central Conductor 40 years. I knew many of the crewmen, now all gone.