Are there any steam locomotives that will work on a 20-22" radius that pull as good as a plain diesel engine?
Thanks,
Brian
Generally, no. I’m sure there are some candidates and a handful might offer the same pulling power as a diesel. The issue is that your average diesel has more room for weight inside and the trucks are more flexible than the generally longer-wheelbased steamers. This gives the advanatge to the diesel in almost every case.
I have an old brass PFM WP 2-8-2 that will go around a 22" radius curve and will pull 100 cars on flat track and about 50 cars on a 2" grade. With enough weight a brass steamer will outpull one of the currect single unit diesels.
Rick J
20-22 inch radius will handle eight coupled locomotives, no sweat. For pulling power, you want the heaviest engine you can get. The die cast metal steamers, Bowser or Mantua pull a lot better than the plastic steam, Bachmann, IHC, etc. They won’t pull quite as much as a good diesel model, but they are respectable.
My BLI Hudson will pull pretty much anything, and runs fine on 22" R curves (as does their 2-8-2). My BLI 2-10-4 also has a lot of power, but needs 24" radius curves.
Sounds to me, this thread is in direct relation to Your other Thread about traction tires. Even a prototype will have problem’s pulling a train up a 3.5% grade. Did You try doubled headed consists, whether they be steam or diesel? Would not be unusual to see a doulbed headed steam consist on heavy grades, or pushers. If you had the room to make the ascent longer it would not be so bad. But I’m thinking you have a small layout with way too heavy grades for distance to run.
Good Luck!
Frank
I have a 2.4% grade on my smallish 5’ x 10’ HO layout. My BLI mikado, mountain and Athearn 4-8-4, challenger and Big Boy have traction tires and will pull a reasonable number of cars. My Bachmann 2-6-0 w/o tires will only pull about 3-4 cars up the grade. My first loco, an Athearn (4-axle) GP9, is kinda my reference point. It will pull about 8+ cars up that grade. My Kato RS-2s are in the same ballpark. I have two Bachmann 2-8-0s in my asset list but both (one used, one new) went back recently and I can’t report on them.
So I may have a similar situation to you…a decent grade that affects what I do. I decided to consist the Gp9 and/or rs2s into 2-3 loco group so I could learn how in DCC as well as add some pulling power for longer trains (real long trains are silly on my layout). On steam, I will run the 2-6-0 with quite short trains, consist with a 2-8-0 and/or try the jar of bullfrog snot I have on hand. I see the upcoming BLI 2-8-0 will have traction tires. Their 4-6-2 pacifics listing do not indicate same, possibly on omission on the description or perhaps not there.
I’m not against but not excited about traction tires. My challenger threw one or two when new and I either accelerated it past the limits or tried to pull too much. I got them back on (they did not tear) but one came off again (probably stretched). I’d just replace them but not sure how to get the driver siderods bolts loose…I measured one and not sure a standard set of Micromark metric hex wrenches or small sockets will fit or whether they are unique items requiring a special tool.
Anyway, hope the leads in this thread will help you with options, whether specific locos, consisting or bullfrog snot.
Keep in mind “traction tires” have evolved in recent years, along with many other things. They’re not all O-rings anymore. I’m still not a big fan, but I’m impressed with the one loco I happen to have them on, because that’s how the factory builds them.
It’s my Liliput Gemeinder narrowgauge diesel. It’s delivered in HOe (9 mm), as the Europeans call HOn30, but is convertible to HOm (12 mm) with an available conversion kit. With a Lenz Silver decoder and the conversion kit, it costs just over $200. I then used the conversion kit as the basis for a set of HOn3 (10.5 mm) drivers. A very easy conversion that works great.
Two of the four axles have one wheel with a traction tire. It’s a wide band of putty-colored rubber, rather than being a narrow ring. The chassis is well-weighted and it has no trouble with a 5 car train equipped with wipers for lighting. The only issue is don’t slide the loco on the rail, as it tends to flatspot traction tires.
The Rio Grande paint is also DIY, but works for me[;)]
I’d suggest either some old Penn Line engines or the more recent Bowser remakes of the models. The I1sa can handle 18" curves and weighs about 2 pounds. I heard from somone else who owns one that he got his to pull a 40 car plus train up a grade.
S&S
I’m in agreement with Stix! I have dozens of steam locomotives from Proto2000, Broadway Limited, Athearn Genesis, Bachmann and maybe another handful of brass. Not only does weight come into play but wheel equalization and proper weight distribution matters, too.
Recently I picked up a Broadway Limited Light Mikado 2-8-2 (Blueline) and after installing a TCS WOWsound decoder I was mighty impressed with the pulling power. IMHO the BLI Hudson is very good but maybe just a bit less drawbar pull than the Mikado.
On the other hand, I have four copies of the Athearn Genesis Mikado and it can barely pull it’s own tender (slight exaggeration) I hear that if you can get a little more weight in the smokebox it markedly improves the pulling power.
Now if you don’t mind a ridiculous amount of boiler overhang, the Bachmann B&O EM-1 (2-8-8-4) is a super puller, a great value and I believe it will do 22" radius but will look pretty goofy doing so!
Let us know how you make out, Ed