So where is a good place to purchase track at a discount? I’m going HO so I’m curious what’s the best track to use, and around what price should I expect to pay for it. The local hobby shop has code 100 flex track for $3.50 for 3’. Just curious if that’s the going price, or what?
Save yourself some heart ache and go with code 83, the price difference is slim to nil. Now, as far as turn-outs go. I suggest peco. The price difference is about 3-5 dollars more for each turn-out but, you will be much more pleased with the look and the feel of your layout and track. I am speaking with the full knowledge that code 100 track is not so good and you run into MANY problems, like Turnouts have HUGE frogs that dont power small engines. The track tie spacing is very unrealistic. And the height of the track is kinda goofy looking. So, go to code 83 and be pleased with yourself and your track! You can use any maker of code 83 flex track, and even Atlas code 83 are “ALMOST” comperable to peco. Walthers makes good track too. Also, I suggest you order it instead of buying it in a store, Track is track, and not a lot can go wrong with it. IMHO! Good luck, Wish I was starting out once again. Love that part of the hobby!
heh, sorry for the double. but, also, try and remember to buy in bulk if you can.
Thanks for the help… so far that’s just what I seen in one store. So that’s why I threw out the price and all. But, just starting out, that’s All I really know so far. I’ll do some reasearch and purchase what I can get at the best price I can get. But I’ll stay 83 
Don’t forget to get Code 83 rail joiners when you buy your Code 83 flex track.
Good track is expensive. Cheap track is costly. Take your time and 50 years from now you will have less junk to throw away.
Have fun
Art
After reading a few reviews and what people have been saying on this board… I figured it’s a “You get what you pay for” Hobby… cheap isn’t always the way out, and I also realize this isn’t something I’ll be finished with in a weekend. the amount of work involved, the research, and the prices alone make it so I will be doing this for a while till I actually finish my first layout, and that’s what I’m really excited about.
Boglwo is right, go for peco turnouts, they are the best i’ve used, and cause they isolate power, you won’t need plastic joiners for sidings, unless for specific points, [^][^][^][^][^][^]
good luck[8D]
danny
Just curious.
What makes the Peco switch so much better than the new atlas custom line code 83? Why is isolating the power so important if your only going to run DCC with no reverse loops?
A little tip I pick up from CVMW is to use N gauge rail joiners instead of HO. They take a little more care to install but they don’t stand out like a sore thumb. Then you can glue the rail bolt bars on at all your joints. I love the way this looks and it’s a nice cheap detail
loathar.
You must do the math before buying anything. Add up how many sections you need, multiply it by LHS price, add tax.
Then see if thats cheaper than mail ordering it in bulk.
It may be cheaper intially for the track at say Trainworld, but the shipping added may kill you.
OH yes, and dont want to discourage you anymore then you allready are, BUT< dont forget about Raodbed. ALl of its kinda the same, up to each indiidual. I personally like the Woodland scenics Foam. But there are other options!
Regarding your question!!!
I dont care about isolation and what not with these turnouts, I am DCC, and a DCC friendly turnout is about the dumbest thing I have seen in this Hobby. If you do your Electrical work correctly on other parts of the layout, A good switch should and WILL work perfectly fine. If it dont, a good small file comes in handy real quik. DCC friendly Turnouts are one of the great marketing schemes this hobby has EVER seen.
Oh yes. Regarding atlas VS. Peco… I have used both and currentlyu have one of each side by side on my layout. There is little difference, Except, Peco just kinda looks better ~shrugs~ Atlas does make good track (code 83 that is. Code 100 is junk). Peco just looks so much better!
I’m still on DC, don’t tempt me to blow my budget and go DCC, so i’m out of date[:(][:(][:(]
Why is code 100 junk?
As for code 83 Wlthers shinohara line is sold out so you cant really depend on that. Peco is so european looking
you guys cry and moan about rivets and feedwater heaters but track that looks like Thomas the tank engine is okay?
Other than the rail being tall list some other reasons why code 100 sucks
If you want to, use code 100. I am perfectly happy with the value I get from my Atlas code 100 flex track and custom line turnouts. As far as operational qualities, I have seen no problems other than the frogs on the T/O’s are rough. Athearn and P2K 4 axle diesels operate flawlessly over them.
I ordered my track and T/O’s from Standard Hobby as they had an attractive price and was very pleased with the service. I have since seen Atlas C100 flex cheaper in a hobby shop about 175 miles away. Not going to make that drive to save $7 shipping and 20 cents a stick on track.
I also use both, but I disagree on two points. Atlas Code 100 track has been the most reliable stuff I have ever used. I have some Atlas turnouts that have been in service for over 40 years with no problems. I have had trouble with the durability of Atlas code 83 on portable units that get banged around a lot.
Concerning the looks, Peco code 100 looks good if you’re doing a Eurpoean RR or don’t mind the look of the curved diverging track. I’m the kind of person who can ignore it until they end up in a photograph. The picture caption, scenery, and rolling stock says D&RGW in Glenwood Springs, but the track says in Berlin. I’ve heard the new code 83 series was designed to North American Standard, but haven’t seen any of it yet.
I would guess the Peco code 100 is going to prove to be as durable as the Atlas.
Well I am planning on using Shinohara code 100 they have a huge selection including the concrete ties. Turnouts from #4 to #10. I have a bunch of old rivarossi my grandpa owned with huge flanges and with the new DCC locos coming out all of the analog stuff will be easier to obtain. I think I could rewire lots of it for DCC remotor it just start picking it up at low prices while everyone else forks out their kids college funds for the new stuff.
I went to my LHS and looked at the different track they had there. I came to the conclusion that I liked Peco flextrack the best and Walthers turnouts (code 83). I like the Peco turnouts, but the snap action is counter productive for my slow-motion switch machine. I guess I could of removed the spring, but I went with Walthers nevertheless. In hind sight, after waiting 8 weeks now with the delivery date continuing to edge to the right, I guess Peco might of been a better choice for turnouts. 0.02.
-Tom
Oh, I mailorder most of my track from rrtrains. If you buy their discount package, you can save tons of money - especially on DCC. However, they don’t seem to email shipping notices or include invoices. It’s annoying, but I saved over $200 on my first order (compared to other online stores).
-T
can you tell me how and where you do that at? where I find the info on it… I built my platform and I’m ready to start laying my track for my layout… but I’m still looking into the best price for the items.