I picked up an old Akane Brass HO B&O 2-8-2 Q-4b on Ebay with the plan of fixing it up and adding DCC with sound. I am going to strip the paint and improve the detailing. Has anyone remotored one of these thing? What motor did you use. What shaft size works? Did you keep the gear box? The mechanics do seem pretty solid. Did you use plastic tubing or a universal? Did you get a fly wheel to fit? Thanks in advance for the advice. - Nevin
It looks like you might be the first one on the block to do so Nevin. All I can do is tell you what I would do.
The first place I would look at is the Motor Replacement Advice page on the N.W.S.L. web site. They also have a Motor Reference Chart to pick the correct replacement motor (I’m sure you already know the motor will have to be insulated).
If the gears are in solid condition, I would not change them. But if they’re not, NWSL has a gear chart that may be able to help you find replacement gears or a new gearbox. N.W.S.L. was a big help to me in replacing the gear box in an old Athearn steam switcher. Contact them if you need help or have questions. And if the motor was a 5 pole (five commutator segments) and ran nice at a slow speed, I’d keep it. The rubber drive shaft should be replaced with surgical tubing. It’s less of a hassle than converting to a universal shaft. I have a Quartering Tool so can set the quarting (very important). After re-installing the wheel and gear box, I roll the engine, without the motor installed, on a piece of glass. If the wheels don’t roll, something is binding like the rods or flashing on the gears.
As for a flywheel, Lenz makes a Uninterruptable Signal Processing Module or USP which acts like an electronic flywheel using their Gold Series Decoder. You would just use a sound only decoder with it.
There are a couple books I have that are helpful; Steam Locomotives Projects & Ideas and [url=“http://store.yahoo.net/kalmbachcatalog/12210.html”]Maintaining and Repairing Your Scale Model Trains[
Nevin–Gary’s given you some terrific advice.
The old Akane mechanisms were considered to be some of the best brass loco drive systems available–they still are. I wouldn’t replace the gearbox unless there’s been considerable damage to it. I’ve got a 40-year old Akane USRA Pacific that still has the original gearbox and it runs like a swiss watch.
If I remember correctly, the B&O 2-8-2 is just about the same size as a standard USRA Heavy Mike, so you might want to take it into your LHS and test-fit some NWSL motors. Usually the NWSL’s come with a 2.5MM shaft, so probably neoprene tubing would work to connect the shaft to the gearbox. Ordinarily I’d reccommend a set of NWSL universals (2.5-3.0MM) because of lack of play in the can motor, but the Akane gearbox usually has plenty of play in it to compensate. At least the one in my Pacific has. I think you’ll have a smooth, powerful loco, and the conversion won’t be difficult at all. Akane was known for their smooth, trouble-free running characteristics, and I’ve yet to run into an old Akane (and I have about 5 or 6 of them on my layout) that didn’t have a rock-solid long-lasting drive mechanism.
Congrats. Post some pictures of it as you work on it, okay?
Tom [tup][tup]
Thanks for the advice. I am going to take a screwdriver to it tonight and disasemble it and see what needs to be done. I’ll measure the space for the motor and see what NWSL thinks will fit. - Nevin
You might also want to check out this site.
http://hometown.aol.com/kenrclark/guide_to_repowering_and_regearing.htm
Also this one, even though it deals with repowering an Akane Cab-Forward.
http://markschutzer.com/Cab_Forward/Cab_forward_index.htm
Tool recommendations:
http://www.daveayers.com/Modeling/Tool_Ref.htm
You also might want to check these pictures out as an alternative to a torque arm to prevent gear box rotation (note: this is before he replaced the tubing with with a U-joint transmission)
http://members.aol.com/kenrclark/repower/KTM_Bracket-1.JPG
http://members.aol.com/kenrclark/repower/KTM_Bracket-2.JPG
http://members.aol.com/kenrclark/repower/KTM_Bracket-2.JPG
Andre
I took it apart last night and discovered that there is no step down gear. The gear box consists of the screw gear and the gear attached to the driver. I don’t know if that is geared down to be slow enough. However, it looks like there is enough room to put a substantial motor in it. After stripping the paint it is interesting to see that some parts are pewter rather than brass. I still can’t figure out how to get into the tender without unsoldering something. - Nevin
i have had very good luck with the A-line series of motors. Have found that most all can motors do not withstand end to end forces very well. I have found that using a torque arm on the geaarbox to the motor, and using the NWSL u-joints. For your Akane I recommend you use a 36/1 idler gearbox. ood luck
Nevin
How did it run when you got it?
“Nevin How did it run when you got it?”
I ran it briefly when it first arrived. The motor is so old and corroded that it was hard to tell much other than the drive train seemed to be well built with no apparent hitches or binds. The motor sounded like a coffee grinder. It managed to make about 1/2 way around my layout when one of the wires fell off the motor and it ground to a halt.
Question for everyone: Where would be the best place to buy brass detail parts (B&O specific) on the internet? I clearly need to be able to see it before I buy it. Any thoughts? - Nevin
Overland Models used to sell detail parts, but I just checked out their site and they only had air horns [xx(]. Check out hobby shops, especially the ones that specilizes in model trains and been around a long time and have old stock. Or look for an Overland Models Dealer.
Precision Scale has loads of brass and plastic detail parts for steamers. Only catch is you have to buy their catalog.
Well, looks like a new motor is needed. Don’t throw the old motor out yet. You might be able to clean and rebuilt it if you really have no other choice.