Many years ago a saw an article about using PVC pipe as roadbed. This is how they did it:
1 - Attach risers to the benchwork.
2 - Use 2 parallel PVC pipes as spline roadbed. Use wood plugs to extend the pipes.
3 - Drill holes and screw the pipes to the risers.
4 - Glue wooden strips between the 2 PVC pipes close to each other.
This will make a free flowing roadbed in all directions. Have you guys used this method?
I built a greenhouse with that stuff once. I ussed the pipe for hoops to hold up polyethylene sheet. It was pretty floppy,but ,maybe if it were supported every 16" or so it might not be too bad. How does one attach the roadbed to that stuff. Latex caulk?
You start bending that pipe around even large radius curves and your going to have a lot of tension in it. You could heat it and get it to hold it’s shape, but that’s a lot of work. I don’t think that’s something I would like to try.
My question is …why? Roadbed doesn’t cost as much as pvc and it’s easier to use, I think you’re asking for trouble if you try the pipe as roadbed.
Having worked a lot with PVC water pipe, I would never consider using it for roadbed on a model layout. There are too many other materials that are easier to work with.
I would suggest, if you insist on trying the PVC, to use Schedule 200 instead of Schedule 40. It will be much more flexible and easier to work with.
Don Z.
if you say so. I wanted to use one as a Subway portal, but that’s a new one.
I’ve never used PVC for roadbed, mostly because the cost and complexity would be so much higher than just using wood. I fail to see the advantage of the method outlined.
I don’t think the cost is a factor…schedule 200 3/4" pvc is $1.13 per 10 foot stick. 11.3 cents per foot, doubled for 2 pipes side by side for 22.6 cents per foot. I don’t think you could buy lumber that cheap.
Don Z.
You still have to buy wood of some kind to make the grade level. Combined with this cost and whatever glue you’d need, I’m pretty sure it’s as expensive as any lumber and a lot harder to work with.