Otherwise, you must do a full three-step reset for the QSI brand. BUT…do NOT forget to remove track power after you press “enter” to execute the final step. When you repower, acquire address “03” and see if the sound comes back.
If nothing, you have a damaged sound circuit, or a loose wire to a speaker, or a hooped speaker.
My PCM Y6-b’s LokSound gave up sound on me four years ago. The loco would move, but neither I nor my decoder friend could get it to make a peep. So, it has a Titan in it now.
I did do a reset on one. And the address went from the one I assigned it back to 3. So I know the/a reset happened. But maybe not a “full three-step”?
Just tried again. No sound. Engine goes. Lights work.
There’s two speakers, so it’s hard to believe BOTH would be out. BOTH would have a loose wire. BOTH would be “hooped” (a term I’m unfamiliar with)
I suppose the “sound circuit” could be damaged. I don’t recall hearing much about sound circuits being damaged.
Ed
PS:
I’ve got the other one opened up (the frame was badly warped, and I had to fix it). I do see, on the decoder, that the speakers are plugged into a two-pin jack. And, right next to that one, is a 4 pin jack with nothing plugged in. Now, not too many designers put in a 4 pin jack for decoration. I wonder why it’s there.
My decoder looks just like the one in the photo in this surprisingly familiar topic:
The speakers are either in series or parallel, so one wire COULD take out both speakers. If they are in series, if one is blown, the other will be dead as well.
The 4 pin connector is probably for additional functions not used in this loco. It might even be labeled.
Check the volume settings, it’s not on mute, is it?
If you set the address back to what is was, does it hold that address even after powering off, or does it revert to 3 all the time? If it keeps reverting - the reed switch is probably stuck. You can desolder it, or just cut it out, it just means future resets will need to follow the CV method in the manual.
In that linked picture fromt he old thread - I don;t think the reed switch is soldered to both those bend over wires going to the board alongside the main chip socket AND soldered across the top of the chip, right? But it looks like it would be VERY easy to it to be pushed down enough to make contact across the chip - which can’t be good for it. Maybe this is the cause of failure in many of these.
I just checked the speakers in the one I’ve got disassembled. One’s blown. They’re in series, so that would take the sound out. I don’t feel like disassembling the other one yet, but I’m going to assume it’s out, too. For now, anyway.
I didn’t check the speakers because I haven’t heard that they fail that often. As someone once said: “Today’s the day!”
Thanks, all, for helping out. I appreciate it.
One last thing. IF anyone else has replaced these particular speakers, what did you use?