After building my first layout,I found I didnt use the highest quality components. I would like my second layout to be built with quality turnout and track. Does anyone have an idea? What is the best source of info for the beginner?THANKS
Yes I have a great idea. Purchase Pelle Soeborgs new book Desert to mountains from here for $19.99 plus $5 shipping. It provides a wealth of knowledge for a beginner on how to do a whole layout. Good luck
I really like Atlas flex track and Peco Insulfrog TOs. These TOs may caus a short wheelbase loco to stall, however. I haven’tt had that problem even wirh small switchers because all the wheels conduct electricity.
I hear shinahorah turnouts are top of the line
Some of the Information Station downloads have some good basic information. But probably the best starting point that I’ve found is the book “Track Planning for Realistic Operation.” A second one that I really like is “Realistic Model Railroad Building Blocks”
As for deciding on the best components and materials, there are a ton of options. A lot of it depends on your tastes, but your tastes will also probably change over time. You may not be interested in operational aspects right now, but later on you may find that you do and that the decisions you made earlier mean that you’ll have to make some changes.
I’ve also found that narrowing your focus can help you determine what you need and avoid what you don’t need. For example, I’m modeling the New Haven railroad in 1948. There is a fair amount of models out that are past my time period, so I don’t buy them. It helps with the budget at times.
Some basic suggestions:
Atlas is a solid place to start for track. Stick with the standard track, rather than the types of track that come attached to a roadbed. Flex track is a better general choice, but you’ll have to learn how to make a good curve. It’s not that difficult, but not as easy as sectional track. I’d also recommend code 83 track. It isn’t really any more expensive, but looks a little better (you might not notice that now). Another popular one at this time with modelers is Micro Engineering flex track. It’s not any more expensive than Atlas, and is better detailed. It works a bit differently as well. Atlas flex track springs back to straight track when you let go. Micro Engineering is more difficult to bend (it’s stiffer), but it holds its shape once bent.
Try to make a shelf layout instead of an island (like a 4x8). You get more useable space and generally a more interesting layout. But you need to be able to go around an entire room (with a duckunder or removable section), or have a fair amount of space for loops to have continuous running. A point-to-point layout is
thanks for your time
What made you feel you had poor quality track components the 1st time around? Was it because somebody told you Brand X was junk? Or was it because you experienced a lot of derailments? Or did you have trouble putting the track components together?
In general - there are always specific counter-examples - the most bullet-proof track will be handlaid track that you lay yourself from rail, ties, and spikes. It’s not because the materials are that much better, but it’s because you will take the time to adjust and readjust if necessary to get everything just right. You are up close and personal with your track when you hand-lay, and because of the time investment and the gauges you need in the 1st place, you make sure it’s right.
If you use ready-made track with that same attitude - getting the necessary tools and taking the time to make sure it’s right before you call it done - you will have the same results with just about any brand of track. The difference is that some brands of track will take more adjusting than others. I don’t know of any track brands that are 100% consistently trouble-free around turnouts. Kato probably comes closest, but the built-in roadbed track systems limit design flexibility. Others can and will advise you on specific problems that occasionally come with each brand of track.
Tools:
- absolutely essential is an NMRA gauge. Period. If you need to fasten or refasten rail you will also need 2 or 3 point gauges with slots to hold the rail head in place while you spike, glue, or solder. Tip: on turnouts track gauge should be very close to minimum at all points for best performance. Letting the gauge approac