Hi, there. I’m doing decal work on a couple of CP C-Liners, and am running into a small problem.
I’m doing one with the script “Canadian Pacific” lettering on the side, using Microscale decals. The “f” has the descender portion (the curlie portion hanging below the rest of the line) which has ended up just over the lower line of rivets, and as a result, is not quite bonded to the model, but instead is “flapping in the wind”.
20/20 hindsight: next time, place the decal just a few mm higher. [B)]
Microsol and Microset have been useful in most other areas (my first attempt to use, BTW, with which I’m quite pleased) in setting the decals nicely over the contours, but I’ve not been able to set down this little flap. I’m also concerned by this point that, if I were to decide to try to move the whole thing up (would also need to move the word “Canadian”, of course), that the decal is now too thin/weak after the Microset applications to handle large-scale moving.
I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions as to what would be an appropriate adhesive to tack this down.
While I’m waiting for answers, on to working on the striping. No hurry- I don’t expect to fini***hem tonight. [:p]
I have found Walthers Solvaset seems to hold the decal down. Also, you might consider applying a clear coat over the entire model, otherwise the shiny decal may stick out like a sore thumb in the right lighting.
You could try cutting off the wayward edge with a scalpel knife and very sharp blade. If you aren’t confident with cutting a straight line, you can use a steel rule with some Sellotape on the back edge, which will protect the decal and the paintwork.
I would try to use a #11 Exacto knife, and just pu***he tip of it into the decal at the top of that rivet. Just a pin hole, or so. enough to relieve the decal to lay down with the adhesive. You can always touch-up the letter once the decal is completly bonded…
I’ve used Solvaset on my decal projects, and dilute it 50% with water when using with Microsdcale decals. Usualy in a case like this I’ll place a good sized drop of Solvaset on the offending decal part. Usually leaving it for a while will work. This has worked when decals have to wrap around a corner or edge. Be sure the model is flat, allowing gravity to help snug down the section.
So, I take it that the Solvaset is “stronger” than Microset? Hmmm. I’ve repeatedly used very generous amounts of Microset, without a whole lot of difference. Maybe the offending edge will eventually settle down (the opposite side of the ridge certainly has), but I’m wondering how long/how many applications it will take? Also, does that stuff (either something-set) eventually weaken/damage the decal? I.e., are there limits to how often I can apply it?
With regards to either my comment that I could have moved the decal up, or the comment about cutting a portion off, here is a (poor) picture. Sorry, it was taken as close as possible, at close to maximum digital zoom, meaning that the resolution is decreasing even more with any more zoom. http://www.geocities.com/bpickeri/C-LinerDecalDetail.jpg
Note that 1) there is no room to move the decals up any more without hitting the middle rivet-line/strip, and 2) if I cut off anything, I’m cutting off part of the loopie itself.
Thanks for the current, and any subsequent, comments. On to fini***he stripes! [:)]
WOW![:p], NICE JOB Brian!(and its an FM too![^])i too recomend solvaset, it is pretty strong. i would try to dilute it a little first, since it has been messed with a few times and see if that solves your problem.[;)][:)] i myself use solvaset unreduced,however, it is STRONG, so i put the decal in place with water, let it dry, then put one thin coat of solvaset over it, let that dry, and then put one last thin coat on it. i have had the best luck doing it this way. i have found its best NOT to move it around OR touch it with wet solvaset on it. GOOD LUCK![:)]
brian, it looks like that bottom loop on your “f” is just hanging there looking for a place to go. if it just sucks up against the plastic, will that be acceptable?
my decalling kit consists of microsol and microset for the initial application and then i use champion decal set to “fry” it into place (it will look like a big wrinkly scab while it’s “frying”). i will use a paint on liquid decal film on old or questionable decals so as they don’t end up as powder in the water from falling apart.
if i were to repair that loop of the “f”, i would glue the little hangie thing with a tiny amount of the liquid decal film, let it dry, then hit it with the more aggressive decalset. once i get to the champion brand decalset, it will be the only one i use. i have used as many applications as necessary to achieve the desired results. when it is dry, between passes, is when i make adjustments (***king bubbles, and making cuts).
plastic is easy, and the above is usually overkill. decals on wood is where the heroic measures must be taken in order for it to appear a part of the wood. on scribed wood, i will eventually cut the decals down the centers of the scribes to remove the spanning and allow it to set as close as it is going to. i use a dullcote, but i’m not sure i have to.
if you don’t use the liquid decalfilm for gluing (and you can get by without it), minimally set that rogue loop with the setting solution first before treating the whole decal, you don’t want that “f” flopping over. I hope this gives you some ideas.
Oui, oui, m’sieu. [:D] (OK, this is more for Western Canada, and I probably butchered the spelling, but I couldn’t resist.) That’s more than acceptable, that’s exactly what I’m aiming at.
OK, Champion Decal Set. Gotta write that one down, along with the afore-mentioned Solvaset.
Yes, that’s the basics of what I’ve been doing, but with the Microset, not something else.
Not sure I mentioned earlier, these are being applied over a coat of Glosskote, although I’m note sure I applied enough- some of the deca