Hi guys new to this, I recently bought a Bachmann Spectrum DD40AX with no dcc and I’m wondering if someone could tell me what and how to make this engine dcc,I have been searching for days and have not found anything
I thought all the DD40AX already had the cheapo DCC decoder installed already.
You might want to check your box and re-read it.
We have to assume you bought this new.
Last I knew, they come DCC on board or DCC with sound,
They do have a PC board with eight pin socket for the DCC onboard decoder.
If you are sure there is no decoder, get a quality decoder. The Bachmann decoders are low end Lenz the last I knew.
Others here can recommend a good decoder for this loco.
I just looked at the Bachmann site.
Below is a link to the site with an HO forum, parts page, diagram page, DCC list, company reps in the forums.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/board,2.0.html
If you are new to DCC, proceed cautiously as there are Gotchas if you buy or move to rapidly. There are many variables in DCC and DCC with sound which is another issue.
Just a Google search for bachmann ho dd40ax dcc will bring up all kinds of information. with links you can store and study.
Rich
To make this a little easier for those who don’t look, below is the PC board witrh no decoder.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=8464
With decoder.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=5612
Bachmann does not sell sound decoders for their locos.
Rich
Here is a link for Plug and Play install. No sound. TCS has very good decoders from all the reviews I have seen.
Ok, I use Plug and Play loosely. Watch out for the wires.
Rich
What scale?
Yes, they made this in HO and N. And if it’s the older HO one, they are most definitely not DCC Ready.
–Randy
DOH, I should have asked the same question, though Bachmann sells it in N scale with DCC onboard which leads to the next question. Are you sure it does not have a decoder? How old is it?
I am wondering if it is from a private sale and someone removed the decoder. This can be easily done in HO and put the DC adapter in place. No idea about the N scale version.
Rich
They sold the N scale one years ago as well, no DCC in that one either. So we need to know both the scale and if it is the new run, or one of the older ones. A look inside would leave no doubts - I wouldn’t trust the label on the box if it was purchased used.
–Randy
Sorry forgot to add that it is ho scale and it is the older version with the dual motors but not with a board that’s what I’m confused about it would I have to hardwire one in? Thanks for all the help
1997 EMD DD40AX Rebuild with dual can motor.
This is the best description I could find of it
Step 1…grab a volt meter
Yes, hard wire install is what we need.
As DigitalGriffin brought up, the question is: How much power?
(And, if you were Tim Taylor, it’s answer: More!)
What do u guys mean buy get a volt meter and how much power how do I test that
Use a couple meters like below. One measures the DC voltage. One measures the DC current. Measure at 12 vdc and press on a wheel, drive shaft.
Most decoders are rated for one amp.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
I have done it with one HF meter but using two meters is easier.
Using a meter makes it a lot easier when working with DCC.
My meters show about 13.6 VAC with the NCE Power Cab.
Hopefully both motors together draw less than one amp.
If this loco is straight DC loco, you will have to split the frame and isolate the motor leads. A photo would help a lot as we are guessing at what you really have.
If no PC board, we are assuming straight DC. Many Bachmann were like that. A few had a PC board with wires coming from the motor and lights on the PC board but yours appears to be different.
Rich
So just got done testing it I’m runnin most of the time .30 amps +/- .10
Step 2. Take off the shell. Turn your meter to the little Ohm setting. (Omega symbol) Put one probe of your volt meter on a motor terminal, the other on the frame. It should read “0L” meaning over range or infinite resistence. If it reads “0” or low digits then your frame is NOT isolated from your motor.
You need to check the stall current, at 12V. Little harder with two motors to grab the shafts of both of them at the same time, but stall current is what you need to select a decoder.
–Randy
Okay back again so the stall current is between 8.10v and 8.30 volts, that being said would the tsunami tsu-at 1000th decoder work
Okay so while I had it apart I took a picture here it is