I am currently constructing Walthers new Citrus Packers kit which I plan to use as a produce distributor. The structure has false fronts at both ends. The building itself has clapboard siding but the backside of the false fronts above the roof line is smooth on the Walthers kit. The way the structure will be placed on my layout will make the backsides of both false fronts visible from the aisle. I need to know how this would be constructed since I have never seen the backside of a wood false front structure. I would have thought it would also have a clapboard siding but that isn’t provided. Another thought I had would be to simulate tarpaper or other similar roofing material. Does anyone know how an actual false front building such as this would be constructed.
IT would be relatively simple to put clapboard back there as Evergreen makes clapboard sheets. take a sample of the clapboard you are using with you to the LHS so you can compare the patterns–although on the back, you could fudge a little.
I had thought of that but the problem is the top edge of the false front is fairly intricate. It has a step pattern with the top step having rounded corners. The front side has trim all along the top edge and if I add clapboards to the back side, I would have to replicate the trim to cover the top of the clapboards. The only easy way to do this would be to buy a second kit and cut of the tops of both these walls and glue it to the back. That may not be as crazy as it sounds because it is rather small for a warehouse and I had thought of buying a second kit and combining them to double the length.
The picture on the box shows the smooth backside painted the same color as the clapboards and this looks completely unrealistic. This kit should have been better designed so that something so visible would have a more realistic treatment. I’m stuck with trying to make the best of it and am open to suggestions.
Without having seen the kit you are referring to, I’m getting two things from your question.
First, you purchased a building that is meant to go against a wall and hence, no detail on the back side. Correct?
Second, this building Will be viewable from both sides. Correct?
Not that those really matter for my point… It isn’t or wasn’t unusual for buildings to have an ornate front while being more utilititarian on the sides and rear. You mention cappboard siding so I’m guessing this isn’t meant to be modern era??
This kit is going to be near the front edge of the layout. The building doesn’t really have a front or back. It has a peaked roof and false fronts that extend above the the peaked roof on both ends. The backside of these fronts which are visible above the roof line have no detail whatsoever. It is a completely smooth side. I don’t know for sure what should actually be there, but I know that no construction technique I am aware of would produce such a look. I understand that the hidden side of these false fronts likely would not be made as ornate as the front but there had to be something on the back side of them. I am going to have to fabricate something since this detail was left off the kit and I’d like to create something that would be somewhat realistic rather than just a smooth side.
How about taking a sharp knife and scoring parallel lines across the smooth surface, the same distance apart as the clapboards on the front? After you paint it, use a thin India Ink wa***o highlight the cuts.
Another option, assuming the area is actually pretty small, is to use strips of thin tape, starting at the bottom and overlapping each subsequent layer as you go higher. Once painted, this would look like the clapboard.
I was thinking along the same lines as MrBeasley. The only thing I would do differently would be to score with the back side of the blade to remove a little of the plastic in the groves.
If you go the tape route, do it before you attatch the crown molding so don’thave to shape the edges of the tape.
Replicating clapboard siding on the backside is the easy part. The clapboards would have to be capped or water would get behind them causing rot on both the front and back siding. Replicating the cap is the difficult part given that it is an intricate pattern. I don’t even know what would be appropriate for the backside of the false fronts. That is why I posted the original question. If I am going to have to fabricate something, I’d like to at least do something that would be used on the real thing for this type of structure.
Chances are the back of the building would be not be decorated as ornatley as the front. The water seal if built in the last 70 years would be a simple piece of metal flashing painted the same color as the wood–there would be no reason for trim. You see the back of the false front because you are in a helocopter. The person on the street would never have your view, and frankly, wouldn’t care.
I have posted this links so you can see what I am dealing with.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2926
As you can see to the right of the picture, the back side of the false front is perfectly smooth. I don’t know what is supposed to be there but I am quite sure it is not what is depicted there unless the builders actually put a big sheet of smooth plastic on the back of the false front. Whether that backside should be clapboards (like the frontside), plywood sheathing, or tarpaper, something other than what is depicted is needed there.
Whatever that surface is, a cap would also be needed, whether that be the same kind of trim as the front or a utilitarian metal strip, something is needed there. If I knew of a wood sided false front building near where I live, I would go check it out but that isn’t the case so getting back to my original question, what should be there to be realistic.
Okay, I see the problem. The trim is molded onto the front side of the building.
I think I would go with the tape or scoring. I first would paint a trim the color of the outside trim. Then I would score up to the point of the trim. Then paint the building body to match the outside clapboard.
The alternative at this point is to rebuild the two false fronts with the crown molding covering both sides , but not necesarily trimed out as well.
the photo helps a lot . you’re right , there should be some detail there in the kit , probably left out to cut cost . i think scribing the back side of the false fronts then adding tape to similate the missing trim would look fine . the back of the trim wouldn’t be as detailed as the front , but as pointed out this wouldn’t be seen from the ground so it’s realistic
why not scibe the back inapproximately 4’x8’ sheets to replicate a plywood backer, simulate a few nail holes with some small brown streaks as the nails started to rust up a bit and you won’t need any sort of topper. Also add a tar line where roof meets back of facade.
The results of attempting to duplicate the clapboard siding on the outside walls using non-kit materials may prove to be disappointing since it could be very difficult to get a good match. The boxed in corners on this building’s roof will collect water (there are no visible drains) so it would be reasonable to expect some kind of roofing material to be present at least part way up the back sides of the false fronts. Using the false front sections from a second kit certainly sounds like a good (but also the most expensive) solution. Otherwise, scribing plywood as suggested by bxcarmike and/or using roofing material would be an excellent way to go.
Does anyone have an answer to the original question of how the backside of a real (i.e. not a scale model) false front building wall would be finished?
Depends on the builder, the architect, the budget, and the owner. Commercial tends to be as cheap as possible but weather tight and low maintainance.
You’re right. You need roof drains in the corners.
I think we need a class action suit against Walthers for this model.
Barring a more definitive answer to my question, I am inclined to use fine grit sandpaper to simulate tar paper over plywood sheathing for the back of the false front and use thin strips of styrene painted to simulate metal stripping at the top edge. The tricky part will be the rounded corners. In reality, the stripping would have to be overlapped with the decorative front trim to prevent water from seeping between the front and rear surfaces but I think I can fake this. I also don’t think a plywood backing would have been left unprotected from the elements which is why I plan on going with the simulated tarpaper. I was going to do this on the pitched roofs as well since they are perfectly smooth and also don’t simulate any type of roof construction I am familiar with.
Also thanks for the suggestion for the downspouts. I had completely overlooked this and since there is no gutter system, water would naturally collect on the roof, quickly rotting out the false fronts and corners. Norm Abrams would be none too pleased with the design of this structure.
Just scribe the back side to represent plain boards. I have an Al Armitage plan of a false front store and that is what is shown on it.
Generally, older commercial buildings w/ a facard/ false front or parapit, were masonry fronts and mixed w/ wood frame. This looks to be be of a southwestern style of construction. The totally wood framed building is sided in claps. the cupula is also in clapboard. Normally this would be of a different material (T&G horizontal or vertical etc). But with the clap everyplace would lend to have it on the backside of the facard as well. Those decorative roof returns don’t nec have to have roof drains, the roof would most likely have been built w/ crickets angling the water away from the corner. A building like this would be rarely ever found in a climate where snow and ice would lay on the roof for any time.
I would suggest scribing vertical lines to represent a siding, however, any siding would be held up 6-10" off the roof. Usually zinc and some lead flashing would be seen below the siding. The top of the decorative front would also be capped w/ zinc and painted as trim. Some areas of the country would use copper or lead coated copper in place of plain zinc. For modeling purposes, not to go to such an extreme, the scribing of the details where the siding ends would be the easiest. Thin styrene strips could be formed to show a continuation of molding detail on the backside of cap and siding edge/end. This building probably didn’t use gutters but they could be added. I would add some triangled stryrene crickets at the corners of the roof for diverting water. Also show continued flashing at these side returns. If you can find a matching clap and don’t mind the extra work the backs can be done in claps and held just short of the detailed ends.
Bob K.
You might try some strips of Evergreen L-shaped styrene around the top of the false-front. With some cutting and shaping, you might be able to extend the crown moulding out over the back side of the false front.