I have a question, but first of all let me just say, I know absolutely ZERO about model railroading. All I know is I wanted to do it now that I am retired.
I just bought a Life Like HO scale track set.
From Ebay I got this Conrail train engine -HO MODEL TRAINS ATHEARN SD40-2. And it does nothing when placed on the track.
My question is - Are these trains (HO MODEL TRAINS ATHEARN SD40-2) supposed to run?
Is the Athearn SD40-2 you bought one of the older “blue box” versions that came in a kit form, meaning you had to install the handrails on it and a few other things? If so, those may have come in a dummy form, which has plastic wheel and no motor, but probably it’s a powered loco that for some reason isn’t getting power to the motor. If so, you would need to remove the shell from the chassis to see whats going on under the hood.
The blue box Athearn SD40-2 would have an electrical pickup system that conducts electricity to the motor via a metal band that runs across the top of the chassis to each of the trucks, where a metal piece rises up and makes contact. So you’ll want to check to be sure all is contacting and getting power to the motor at the top. The motor also gets power from the frame underneath where it sits in the metal frame above the fuel tank.
If it’s an RTR SD40-2, which come in the yellow and blue newer boxes, those were different from the old ones. It would help to know which you have.
If it rolls when you push it down the track, it’s a dummy…no motor. If it slides on the rails without the wheels turning, then it’s a powered unit and probably has electrical problems, like a loose wire or the metal band above the motor not making contact with the trucks.
First, Welcome to The Greatest Hobby in the World!
Your choice of the Athearn SD40-2 was a great choice! They are a very powerful low maintenance locomotive. I have a dozen of them in my inventory.
As Dave mentioned the best test is to see if your locomotive is powered or a dummy. If the wheels don’t turn without power it has a motor. The most common thing I’ve found with Athearn locomotives is a bad connection between the motor and the frame. There is a spring brass strip on both the top and bottom that holds the motor end bells in place. The top brass strip has an extension strip that connects the two power contacts from the trucks to the motor.
The bottom strip has two small fingers that push against the motor frame for power pickup. If the motor mounts slip up a tiny bit the fingers won’t make contact with the frame.
You said that you bought a track set. Did this set include a controller/transformer that you attach via wires to the track (typically one red and one black)?
The question of a powered versus “dummy” (unpowered) was asked. There are a few ways to tell if a loco is powered or a “dummy.”
The price paid for a locomotive can be and indicator of whether it is powered or a “dummy.” An inexpensive (typically in the $5.00 - $20.00 range) locomotive will probably be an unpowered or “dummy” locomotive.
Also the weight of the unit can also be an indicator. A powered locomotive will be quite heavy compared to other cars (rolling stock) in your set. A “dummy” will weight approximately the same as a similarly sized train car.
When purchasing many sellers will list the unit as a “dummy” or “unpowered.” Some will not!
You might ask what’s the point of a “dummy”?
Trains in the real world (prototype) often run in sets referred to as Consists or MU’s (Multiple Units). These consists are usually made up of locomotives of the same type and manufacturer (as you will discover there is always an exception). This allows for the lead unit to control all the units in the consist easily because they have similar performance characteristics and methods of control.
In the model train world replicating a consist used to provide a challenge, even if the locomotives were from the same manufacturer.
To have the look of a consist manufacturers produced “dummy” or unpowered versions that could be run just like any other car without the problems of two powered units bucking or fighting against each other because of manufacturing differences.
There are two common train control systems available today. Without knowing you
Do you live within range of a decent hobby shop with model railroading stuff? If so I’d suggest going there to ask about your loco but also get some personal guidance about how to get started, what to learn now, what to leave until later. They will likely have some useful booklets for perusing that cover the basics needed early. Also note the booklets in the MR store “Shop” at the top of the page.
You might also determine whether there is a club within distance and ask to drop in. Someone there would likely offer to give some ongoing advice.
Manwhile, did the loco come in its original box? If so, can you tell us the details: box colors, everything printed on the end of the box, which includes the model number, loco’s Conrail #, etc. Maybe we can figure out what it is. Here’s todays Ebay listings for Athearn HO 40-2 Conrail:
The insides looks just like the diagram on the link you posted, minus the headlamp assembly.
Was the motor firmly mounted in. Actually as the engine was upside down while moving aside the frame. When the shell came off the entire motor dropped off with it.
Looking at some of the spec to what kind of power draw is needed to run it, the standard power supply unit may now be supplying enough power for it. The spec for the pwr sply I have is ---- Input 120 volts - Output open Connection … 18VAC …16VDC.
Could that be possible.
btw the way…does the Connection Clip go under the hooks coming up from the trucks or do they just hover above them…Who knew?
A local hobby shop if one exists would help you initially. If not someone here who is local to you can help you get started. We would need to know your general location. This is generally a friendly helpful hobby.