I’m just beginning to experiment with the KaDee 321 MagneMatic uncoupler (the magnet that fits between rails – non electric). I’m finding the process to be a little hit and miss – sometimes uncoupling, sometimes not. Same thing with the “delayed coupling” concept of being able to back into an uncoupled car, push it, then pull out without coupling. Sometimes works great, the next time, no delay… it just couples when pushing the car. Am I doing something wrong or is this why guys use shish-ka-bob skewers instead of magnets? Thanks for any tips!
I’m just starting to play with these things, too, but my impression is that they’re pretty fussy. I’ve got a coupler guage, so I’ve got all my couplers lined up as closely as I can to “perfect.” I haven’t gone as far as adjusting all the air-hose trip pins yet, but that’s next.
One thing I found was that it really, really wants a straight stretch of track at least as long as the cars you’re uncoupling on either side. That basically says to put it in the middle of about a 15-inch straight, minimum. It’s worse for big locos and passenger cars, of course.
And not every coupler that comes with your cars and engines is a genuine Kadee. For better or for worse, I’ve got a fleet of half-century old cars with horn-hooks, so in the end, they will all be Kadee-equipped. Most of my engines are new, but at the rate that the factory-installed couplers are failing, that fleet will be all Kadees even sooner.
In order for the magnets to work well everything has to be in perfect adjustment. I personally found the between the rails to be a bit of a pain. Sometimes working and sometimes not. There is also the matter of how they look… Not to mention the rather unprototypical need to stop, back up just a little for the coupler to uncouple, pull forward so they unhook, back up keeping constant presure on the couplers and drop off the car where I want it. After several trys I started using the Rix handheld uncoupler and I now just use the Bamboo Skewer trick for uncoupling except for a couple of hard to reach areas. I had a couple of the Electromagnetic ones that worked very well.
Again, kaydee, again uncoupling using bamboo skewers. What’s wrong with this picture??? this seems unbelievable in this day and age with all the advances in electronics and new technology people are actually sticking pieces of bamboo between boxcars to uncouple them. I attended a train show and watched a guy wander around a layout with a stick unhooking cars and finally asked him what century are we in, he admitted it was one of the dumbest things he has to do at the layout. Again, are we in need of a new, functioning, realistic, coupler that works right along with all the other advances in model railroading.
The Seargent engineering couplers have a novel feature. While still not high tech. (Which leads to un-needed over engineering alot of times.) It is alot less "Dumb then the bamboo skewer.
The seargent engineering couplers have a little trip bearing inside them that when a magnet is held over the top of the coupler, it lifts up and releases the coupler. Then when the couplers are open it stayes wedged “open” until they are coupled to another car. They act alot like the couplers on my grandfather’s lionel trains except upside down.
And you just need a tiny magnet to make it work. My dad has a litte screwdriver that has a magnet on the end. I think that would be satisfactory.
My [2c]worth.
James
First of all, the #321 magnets are designed for use with code 100 track. If you use code 83, you have to cut the center of the ties an use their jig #334 to set the correct height. When I tried these, I used a bed of ballast and glue to set the magnet in place.
After a lot of frustration, I finally switched over to the #308 under the track magnets. With these, you can cover them up with ballast and never know they are there. They are very strong and should be aligned with equal distances with the track. I seldom have a miss in uncoupling using these magnets.
As already mentioned by Mr. “B”, it is important to keep the two cars as straight as possible over the magnet. If you have a slight curve, then you can adjust the #308 to give the best results before gluing in place. Also, using Kadee couplers will help insure uncoupling. If I have a car that gives me trouble, I immediately change the couplers to Kadee.
FYI: I still use a home made manual uncoupler for all those places you won’t have an uncoupler handy.
REX[:)]
I have to say that my delayed uncoupling works very well. As stated above, everything has to be perfect …coupler height, coupler operation, and the air hose pins. Straight track is also needed. If you really need to have it near a curve, trial and error with the magnet placement below the track can work.
I don’t have mucho cars like many of you guys have, so keeping my small fleet of rolling stock’s couplers in absolute perfect condition is easier for me.
And everything KD.
Jim
Interesting, Last time this subject came up. I replied that I had good success with the Rix handheld uncoupler (which I still use for most situations) and was immediately told that the Bamboo Skewers worked much better and that no one still used the magnets… (well we all know that one isn’t true). From that thread, I tried the Bamboo skewers and found that they work quite well. As I said, interesting [;)]
I guess that there are many ways of uncoupling cars on layouts (which is true for most everything in the hobby). Enjoy your trains!
As mister B and others have mentioned, the couplers need to be nearly perfect.
The Kadee coupler is at it’s best when used w/ the Kadee draft box. I have found that the paint and micro defects on the shanks affect coupler operation at times. When installing any coupler, I rub the shank across a piece of 400/600 wet or dry- then burni***he shank with grease em (graphite) on card stock. This has worked quite well for me anyway. Any of my pieces of rolling stock will properly uncouple and delay as long as the trip pin/ magnet are in proper spec.
I have never had any luck w/ the plastic knock offs. They are always tossed along with the provided Kadee looking bronze centering spring. You can place the springs side by side and never tell the difference, however, not sure if the knock off is a quality spring alloy- they don’t work as good as the Kadee.
Bob K.
I use the Kadee #308 under-track uncouplers and find that they work very well, EXCEPT they are so powerful that any cars with steel weights inside are attracted to the magnet, making uncoupling problematic. I generally replace the steel weights with ones made from 3/32 x 1 inch brass stock, available at the LHS. Unfortunately I have some RTR cars (Red Caboose X29 boxcar, for instance) where I cannot gain access to the interior of the car to change the weights.
It must be on level and straight track. If the magnet is on straight track and the car is comming out of a curve or going into a curve ( as close to a switch) it won’t work properly. Move it at least a car length away from any curved track or switch. On my pike I have very little trouble. Not perfect but working. The real railroads DO have trouble sometimes with couplers. I watch them closely every day at work as I am a trailer jockey at an auto plant and the trains are always in my way.