Question about portals.

Paul, I am glad I can help, but it is not like I invented this approach. Most of us started out pretty uncertain about what we were doing. The key is just giving things a try and you’ll find with experience you get better as time goes on.

Using the plaster will tie the castings together. There is no particular right or wrong way to do it. Start out working a very small area. Don’t worry to much about getting plaster on the casting, just work it in. When your finished you want to not really be able to tell which were the casting and what is carved rock. You want your work and the casting to blend together. Study the photos of Bob’s rock work. If you feel like you have gotten to much plaster on a casting, while the plaster is still soft, use the paint brush dipped in water to brush some of the plaster away. Show us your results. Bo [:)]

Visit my website Bo’s Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

I’ll definitely post the results but it may be a few days because I glued them in place, well, they’re solid now so I could start anytime. I was wondering if I should use hydrocal which hardens so darned FAST, or foam putty. I ask because regular plaster such as DAP won’t take the W/S pigments but I know hydrocal will and the foam putty container says it will take the pigments as well. I like the foam putty but I’ll have to wet the area first.

I know I can do it now, blend the rocks into the plaster and make it all look like a big rock formation.

Thanks for all your help.

Pics as soon as possible.

Merry Christmas. (For what it’s worth…)

Paul, I would use the same material for carving as was used to make your rock castings. I have never used foam putty for carving rock work, only hydrocal/plaster of paris. It does set fast, that is why I would start out making only a small batch and work only a small area at a time. When I do my rock work I have a small putty knife, a couple of different knives , a couple dental tools for the finer work, a cheap 1/2" paint brush and a container of water. The process can get messy, but that is part of it and it all cleans up.

In this instance working small areas at a time will give you the opportunity to step back and look at what you have done and plan how you want to proceed.

I was down in the basement cleaning up the railroad in preparation for the grandkids and was looking at my rock work. I have been working on my railroad for eight years now and you can definitely see a difference between my earliest efforts and the more recent ones. Looking at Bob’s work makes me want to go back and re-work some of my “not so ready for prime time” efforts. At some point, I may very well do that. I’ll post a picture in the next day or two of what I consider some of my best work.

Until then take care and good luck with the rock carving!

Merry Christmas!

Bo

Visit my website Bo’s Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

Hydrocal it is then but I have a test piece of the foam putty drying on a piece of paper waiting to be used as a test for the pigment. I have dental tools too, good idea.

Looking forward to some pics.

What I do to avoid that kind of question is to base everything in my scenery on a photograph. I don’t necessarily directly copy the prototype in every case, but I keep a pile of photos in the work area and consult them regularly. If I wonder how I’m doing, I see if a photo supports me, but mostly I try to get the idea firmly established of how the model should look before I even start mixing plaster. You won’t have to guess if you’re creating a plausible scene if every shape is adapted from a photo, just like most modelers wouldn’t scratchbuild a coal mine or boxcar without photos or plan drawings.

Here’s tunnel scene I’ve been working on recently, based on several photos of the area around Flower Lake tunnel on the WP in eastern Nevada. I built the hillside out of cardboard strips, and assembled them around the track as if the whole hill was still there, then started reshaping the cut into the already existing hill before plastering. When the scene is finished it should look as if the landscape was there first.

This area was built the same way. I made sure to leave plenty of space around the track so I wasn’t forcing steep slopes where they shouldn’t be, and ensured I had room to build up rock cuts. My prototype often extends a concrete liner past the end of the mountainside, placing the por

Rob, that looks awesome. I’m a total newbie and this is my first layout. My biggest problem has always been in seeing ahead. You did a great job, I like it.

Rob, I agree with Paul, your work looks great. I also agree with you that it is very helpful to have a good idea of what you want before you start with the plaster and to us photographs to help guide the work. Bo [:)]

Visit my website Bo’s Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

I still think you need to add some dirt on that mountain. I know you’ve got that Georgia red clay, so just get some of the Woodland Scenics dirt for ground cover.

Get it here: http://www.artistichobbies.com/proddetail.php?prod=WOO1342

Thanks Michael. Today on my walk through the forest I collected a large ziploc bag full of dirt, tiny rocks, and “talus.” I need to sift it and clean it first though. But yeah, in the forest the soil is dark but in my backyard it’s all red clay garbage, good for nothing.

I’ll take a look at the W/S dirt, if it’s foam dirt I already have some.

Have you seen the two latest photos though? I really need to fill in the gaps around those newly added rocks, I think that’s a good idea. As I said before I like to hike in the forest where I live, usually about five or more miles a day and I’m always on the lookout for anything that might help, photos, debris, whatever. So I want to add hiking trails on my mountain through a forest, I think that’ll be cool. I can put some hikers up there and I was even thinking about some mountain climbers. Who knows?

Thaks for you help.

Paul, I forgot that you have a mine going in this spot. Do you plan on considerable vegetation on and around the hill? If so don’t worry yourself w/ the rockwork. Place the structure, find and even dry place some polyfiber and chunks of ground foam and see just where you may need to place the additional rock. You will get a much better feel for the area the more you can “mock it up”. Many times it’s a lot of trial and error and other times it just hits you and comes to gether.

Yup, the New River mining co. I was planning on doing a lot of vegetation and using real trees made with casperia and oregano plants along with SuperTrees that I’ve been making. Also bottle brush conifers.

I’ve been learning a lot about trees from Lou Sassi’s book and some DVD’s I have.

I was planing on using the poly fiber for vines and stuff near the retaining walls but now that the rocks are glued in I have to use the hydrocal and shape them.

I have alredy experimented with a little and used some dental picks and it’s coming along nicely. More relaxing and easy that I thought. So all in all I think it will be nice. The rocks will be blended in nicely. I can’t believe I didn’t think of this but thanks for the tip! I’m gonna have a nice mountain when I’m done which will be in a couple of weeks or maybe more.

Very nice. Another suggestion. You should also add pine needles. I used to live in Hotlanta, so I know those big tall georgia pines have lots and lots of pine needles. Not sure what you can use to model that though.

Rob or Bob, do you know what he can use for pine needles?

From one of my books I got this: take an old blender and fill it with dried leaves and some water then blend it

Paul, The overall purpose of this “mountain” is to provide backdrop due to the coal industry. Now besides the portals which you can address and further scenic at a later time, don’t be too concerned w/ hunting down all that “stuff” from the wild. I would strongly recommend using scenery products such as WS fine grasses, turf, ground foam and polyfibers for your first attempt. Medium light greens, and even burnt grass. These products work well and will not change coloring or texture when wet down and glued as can happen w/ dirt, leaves and other natural stuff. Not saying these shouldn’t be used, but for first timer, stick w/ what you expect to work.

As to those rocks giving you fits, any "slab of a vertical cut should present itself as being basically from the same rock, just try to blendlike appearance ance fill-in and carve the plaster to suit. A hint to carving hardened casting, is to dampen the plaster w/ a sprayer or even small sponge. Wet plaster carves very easy. I only cut ,shape or break hardened plaster to get the ragged breaks or a cobbled look.

You already have a base “dirt” color, doctor up a few of those castings, adding hydrocal and the rock blending/ carving for now, touch up the base brown paint, then paint a thick enough coat of paint and start to sprinkle on some of the grasses and turf, Go easy as you add the vetetation some of the thinner see through is what’s wanted, you should even leave spots closer to rock where it shows bare spots. Dry set the structure, get a feel as to what and where to start placing larger bushes, and progress into trees. This is a small hill and I would keep the trees to a min and not too much in height. As you plant towards to upper more level and closer to the backdrop you can use taller trees. I wouldn’t go too crazy w/ pines run a mix and place random pines tallest to and mixed toward the back/ top, Using 3" and possibly a few 4" height for the tallest. As to the base and nex

[quote user=“bogp40”]

Paul, The overall purpose of this “mountain” is to provide backdrop due to the coal industry. Now besides the portals which you can address and further scenic at a later time, don’t be too concerned w/ hunting down all that “stuff” from the wild. I would strongly recommend using scenery products such as WS fine grasses, turf, ground foam and polyfibers for your first attempt. Medium light greens, and even burnt grass. These products work well and will not change coloring or texture when wet down and glued as can happen w/ dirt, leaves and other natural stuff. Not saying these shouldn’t be used, but for first timer, stick w/ what you expect to work.

As to those rocks giving you fits, any "slab of a vertical cut should present itself as being basically from the same rock, just try to blendlike appearance ance fill-in and carve the plaster to suit. A hint to carving hardened casting, is to dampen the plaster w/ a sprayer or even small sponge. Wet plaster carves very easy. I only cut ,shape or break hardened plaster to get the ragged breaks or a cobbled look.

You already have a base “dirt” color, doctor up a few of those castings, adding hydrocal and the rock blending/ carving for now, touch up the base brown paint, then paint a thick enough coat of paint and start to sprinkle on some of the grasses and turf, Go easy as you add the vetetation some of the thinner see through is what’s wanted, you should even leave spots closer to rock where it shows bare spots. Dry set the structure, get a feel as to what and where to start placing larger bushes, and progress into trees. This is a small hill and I would keep the trees to a min and not too much in height. As you plant towards to upper more level and closer to the backdrop you can use taller trees. I wouldn’t go too crazy w/ pines run a mix and place random pines tallest to and mixed toward the back/ top, Using 3" and possibly a few 4" height for th

Paul, this is my club’s layout. We are so lucky to have such a space to work with. Next year the club will celebrate our 75th anniversary the oldest club in the country. We have a 50’ x 140’ space in which to build our RR. I gave up a home layout 18 years ago. It’s a delight to be able to run on such a fantastic setting.

There are 60+ members that have helped to make this what it is. Of coarse so many ideas means so many troubles in finalizing every set of the building also. Even as an experienced finish carpenter of 40 years, I rarely ever touch the benchwork, I’d rather enjoy myself running a 50 car train or doing scenery. You are ruler and chief engineer of your empire. There’s a lot to be said for that. Keep us posted on your progress.

I’d give anything to be part of a club but there’s no one here. The nearest club is hours away from me.

I have to wing it through DVD’s, YouTubes, and books. I have no one to help except for the forum.

I thought there’d be more people in the hobby but where I’m at apparently I’m the only one.

Well you’re doing a great job so far. keep it up. Merry Christmas to you and your family.

Well, I mixed some Hydrocal and added baking powder which gives you more working time and used my trowel and spray bottle to get it where it needs to be. It looks like melted ice cream dripped down a mountain. So now when it dries in a couple of days I can carve it.

Think it looks better now?

Paul, much better, you’ll find the plaster carves rather easily. Dentil picks, small chisels screwdrivers etc all do a good job. You can even dig in and allow it to chip for a cobbled look… Now as you start to place rocks, do you see why I will always recommend that you try to keep the base a bit further away from track, portals and other finite portions as the rocks tend to build up/ out and encroach or swallow up portals, walls and the like. Early on that’s why I suggested furring out the portals somewhat.

If you have the plaster/ base thickness over each of the portals, dig out some of the plaster behind the “capping” stones. This will allow the remaining scenery products to still be lower than the cap itself. I believe you can see this in some of my previous portal pics.

Coming along nicely so far.