I am starting work on my first scratch built structure using styrene. The subject is a large grain elevator for my N scale layout. There will be more than 30 window openings to cut, and I am sure that I will make some mistakes. There will be some unwanted gaps and gouges to deal with. What is a good product to use to fill small gaps in styrene? Thanks very much for your help.
Paul Scholten
In the UK, we use Milliput a lot for what you are intending to do. It is a 2-part epoxy putty, originally invented to fix car bodies, but comes in various grades, ideal for modelling. It hardens like stone and can be drilled, tapped, filed, etc.
I don’t know what the US equivalent is, though. Maybe someone else can clue you in.
Jon in the UK
Paul;
If the windows are identical, make or buy a punch tool to cut them out in one hammer blow.
Many like the putty used for auto body work - cheap too. Other like Squadron Green that your LHS should have.
The hobby shops sell several brands of putty for use with styrene. Greenstuff is probably the best known. They are basicly the same as the body filler putty sold at auto parts stores. I have used both. They shrink so may take several applications to build up to the proper surface, but are easily sanded.
I have read of Armor modelers using super glue to fill holes in resin casting. It is much tuffer to sand than putty.
On models with flat smooth sides, I don’t cut out the windows. I build the sides using strips of styrene, so I get square uniform opening without nicks and cuts. After the sides are built up, I brush acetone over the outside. This penetrates the joints to really weld the strips together. After everything is dry I sand the part on a flat surface. Whe painted the joints are not visible.
A similar method can be used with scribed siding. (without the sanding) If layed out right the scribing will hide the joints.
Jongrant suggeated Milliput. It is available in the US. I’ve seen it in the a well known tool company mail orer catalog. (sorry don’t remember the company)
Paul…
I’ve had good luck with Testor’s Contour Putty, available at most hobby shops. Apply it with a small pallet knife and smooth it out with a finger dipped in alcohol.
If you plan to work with styrene, you might want to pick up a copy of ‘Basic and Advanced Tips and Techniques for Styrene Modeling’, from Evergreen Scale Models. Full retail is $14.95, but I found a copy on eBay for about half that price.
A fine-grain auto body filler putty, Nitro-Stan 9001 and 9002, is recommended in the book for its ease of application, rapid drying time, and chemical stability. I have no personal experience with this product but you might want to try it.
Bruce J.
Bondo autobody putty. Comes in a tube. Easy to apply, dries fast. I haven’t used Squadron since I started with Bondo. I believe Bondo is cheaper than Squadron, anyway.
A cheap and effective putty can be made by dissolving sprue in model cement.
I have used Dan’s suggestion of making a styrene and styrene glue glop and using it. Sometime this glop works and looks great. I have used auto body putty and the green stuff as well.
Also for windows, you might try a “nibbler”. I bought one at a Canadian Radio Shack for about $10, so not a lot of money. Basically you drill a hole the nibbler fits through, then you nibble out a window.
Model Grade Miliput is also available in the US through Micromark.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated!
Paul Scholten
I’m surprised no one else mentioned it, but I use a porduct called Red Putty. I’m not sure the company name (don’t have it in front of me) but most good hobby shops carry it. It is used a lot by RC car and airplane modelers. It fills in the gaps and then can be sanded smooth and takes paint very well. I have used it for everything from filling gaps in white styrene on scratchbuild structures to filling in holes on rolling stock roofs where I have removed walkways. Try it.
As for your windows, try this… Carefully mark out the position and size of the window opening. Than drill holes inside this opening at the corners and a few in between, staying completely inside the lines you drew. Cut between the holes, then use a file to to file down the excess material and test fit the window. Keep filing and testing until you get that perfect fit you’re looking for. Hope this helps.
Ron
Can styrene be drilled easily with a Dremel?
Yes; and melt it too. You are better off in most cases to use a pin vise.