Question about switch machines

With the Atlas turnouts, and the Atlas deluxe undertable switch machines, what plywood thickness max and min is permissible?

Can you still handthrow if you install the undertable Atlas on an Atlas switch?

Same question with the Tortoise machines and Atlas turnouts.

What switch machines work with the Peco turnouts? Do you remove the spring? Can you still handthrow?

Thanks in advance.

The Atlas below-track mount has a 1-inch vertical throw rod. So, you should get away with 3/4 inches of plywood and roadbed. I suspect that was their design criteria. I think the Atlas below-track machine has a manual lever, but it would be below the layout and kind of useless. You can’t hand-throw an Atlas unless you can use the lever. Pushing over the points won’t move the mechanism, and the points will just spring back.

The Peco machine works very well with the Peco turnouts. They are designed for each other. The Peco machine requires the spring that’s part of the turnout. You can hand-throw these by pushing the points over, because it’s the spring that holds things in place. A Peco machine takes more of a “kick,” so I recommend a Capacitive Discharge circuit to drive them. Of course, a CD circuit is a good thing for any twin-coil machine. Build it yourself for a few dollars in parts, even from Radio $hack.

Atlas makes a “deluxe” undertable machine that includes power-routing contacts for a few dollars more. Peco makes an add-on kit to their machine that does the same thing. This is provided standard with the Tortoise.

So I need the Peco mounting plate AND the Peco switch machine? Any idea on how think Peco can go through?

I’m not sure what the mounting plate is for. Peco switch machines won’t work with anyone else’s turnouts, because they need that spring, and I think the spring is unique to Peco turnouts.

The Peco machine mounts directly to the underside of the turnout. You need to cut a hole through the roadbed and into the base to accomodate it. The machine is about the same width as the track (including ties), about an inch along the track, and maybe an inch and a half deep. My layout is on 2-inch foam, and I just cut a big square block out, top to bottom, so that I can easily run the wires, and the switch machine gets some ventilation. I make a cardboard cover to put over the hole to protect the machine and let me ballast over it.

Peco does make a version of the switch machine with a long throw rod. You might be able to mount that below the layout. (Hmmm, maybe that’s what the mounting plate is for?) To me, though, one of the nice things about the Pecos is the way the machine mounts solidly to the turnout, so alignment is never a problem.

pilot:

Measure the length of the throw bar. Figure the thickness of the roadbed and track. What’s left is for wood

Probably not. What’s undertable is unaccessable.

RIX switch macines with RIX mounts can use longer wire throws, (as can Tortoise), but the Tortoise requires 12v. DC powering.

I see you’ve done your homework. IF you want to ‘hand throw’ ANY turnout, you need accessibility from the top. 2. you remove the spring ONLY for switch machines.

The ‘spring’ keeps the points locked in place after the switch is thrown. Mchines do this. Two is TOO much.

I’m going to short circuit your future problems by recommending two sheets or 1/4" ply. and PECO switch machines and turnouts.

You can cut out pieces in one sheet where the turnouts will be, giving you 1/4" throw plus 1’4" roadbed & 1/2" ply.

OR TOP MOUNT ATLAS switch machines along with dummys that manually throw. Save you bottom mounting for your next layout.

Please DO NOT even think of using these. We just finished removing the last of the 18 #66 Atlas machines that we installed. THey where failing at the rate of one a week after 5 months of NO PROBLEM. These where driven by a CD system using Digitrax DS52 controllers. So there was never a problem with a hanging push button. They ALL failed in the same way. the arm just would nolonger move the points in one direction.

We replaced the last (3) tonight with Tortoise and used the remote mounting kit to clear the tToroise from over the lower tracks. The Tortoise is just a fool proof unit, expensive, but worth the money and time. We have 163 of them in and running with the last three to be wired this weekend.

I’ve been using Atlas above-table units for many years. In fact, most of the ones on my layout are over 40 years old, and still functioning, although most of that time was spent in attics and basements boxed up with the rest of the trains.

I’ve got one under-table unit, but I mounted it directly to the underside of the turnout with glue. This was an experiment, so if it fails, well, it fails and I’ll have to replace it.

I’ve got 5 Pecos, all relatively new, and all working great.

But…I really hate the appearance of Atlas above-table units. I’ve been making scenic covers for them, and last week I made an extension throw-bar for one and moved it 3 inches away so I could hide it more easily. What I’ve found about scenic covers is that the Atlas machines are very, very close to minimal distances from the rails, so there’s almost no room for any scenery over them on the track side.

If you’re on a tight budget, go with the Pecos even though they are more than Atlas. If you’ve got the resources, consider the Tortoises. That will be my plan for my next layout, if there ever is one.