A question for the folks that use PC Ties in their trackwork, whether for switches or just laying regular track-- do you pre-tin your PC Ties before using them? If so, do you find it creates a nicer-looking result (less blob-ish) ?
Does anybody use a resistance-soldering machine to do their soldering (with PC Ties) ?? If so, what has been your experience? Worth the cost?
John
I use a resistance soldering machine to solder rail to PC ties. I don’t tin the ties and there are no blobs with the resistance soldering. Never used an iron so I can’t comment on the pros and cons.
Harold
Never had to tin - just gap them, and hit it quick with a file to remove any loose copper strands that might cause a short and put some texture on the surface.
I use a Weller variable temp soldering iron with a fine tip per the Tim Warris vidoes on Fast Tracks.com. His method that works well is to let the flux melt under the rail, and than the solder will follow, wicking underneath.
I’d worry about melting nearby plastic ties though, if you’re looking at repairs, and you may wish to practice on a piece of scrap flextrack.
Hi Harold,
Thanks for the reply. Do you have a picture online somewhere you could point me to? I’d like to see what the solder joints look like.
John
No, this is a new install, not a repair. And I actually have a pretty good soldering technique, but I have been studying various photos online of soldering to PC Ties and noticed that most of the joints are ‘blob-ish’. Do you think that’s a matter of technique or soldering type (i.e. resistance versus regular iron)?
I have found if you use the ones from Fast Tracks there is o need to tin them but I have only used the ones from Clover House once or twice and those I did tin. I think using a good flux is more important. I only have ever used a 40watt soldering iron with a very clean tip, layed it on top of the rail and placed the solder right at the point where the tie and rail meet and it sucks it right in almost immediately. I’ve never had any blobs and for me thats saying something. any solder is covered over by the Flowquil paint pens I use. Can’t say I would want to weather every tie with them but for spot jobs or to simulate ties that have been recently replaced their great.
So the short answer to your question, Hot/clean iron+ clean surface +god flux = nice clean job.
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/pc-board-wood-ties-pc-board-ties-c-7_38.php
I’m no expert on this, mind you, but I’ve done over 15 turnouts now.
I think Allegheny hit it right on the head. A clean worksurface, tip, and good flux. The only other thing that I did find made a difference was the solder itself; when I ran out of the .015 stuff I tried using larger diameter flux, and ended up with blobs.
I don’t have any great pictures, but this cross over is the 3rd turnout I ever made.
You can really see blobs on the points, at this stage I was still fighting with them more than any other part of the turnout process. You can see the rest though are pretty flat.
As mentioned you paint over them, and they’re really not noticeable.
Yes, that certainly does not look bad or ‘blob-ish’. I hadn’t thought about the diameter of the solder much but that would make sense.