Ok so here’s a little background. I haven’t worked on my layout in a good 9 months or so, but i am considering getting back into it. Here’s the thing. I work all the time because i want this hood for my car, so i’m not ready to go spend 50 bucks on wood. I have a bunch of slightly warped ones, is there a way to “un warp” them so i can use them? If I have to go put anymore money into wood i’m not, because that eats my wallet.
There is no practical way. If you are building support for your layout surface, i.e.- a bench, then only the joists and perimeter support need to be even and flat. As for stuff that is not visible, or on which the deck won’t rest, you can cut them to suit their purpose as stringers and legs. They may not be pretty, but they will work if you cut and screw them right.
if you are willing to wait, you could always place them on a concrete surface that is flat, and place very heavy weights on them; they’ll eventually straighten, but it will take a few weeks, maybe.
It also depends on where you would be using the boards and what type of benchwork you will be building.
For instance, I have often used slightly warped 1x4s and 1x2s to make L-girders. If you find pieces that are straight along the side that’s warped in the other piece, putting the two of them together in an L-girder often straighens them both out.
they are 1 X4s, i have like 20 feet of them. I’m going to try C clamping them to something, leave them for a day or too and seeing what comes out of it. I am doing whatever I can to save money, because i will eventually have to make a 5 level helix that will eat my wallet. (I’m a cheapskate.)
Would you buy a house with a warped foundation?
It’s always easier to redo things 3 and 4 times, fixing previous mistakes instead of doing it right from the start. How much do you already have invested / spent on your trains? Future purchases? $50- 100 is almost nothing, cheaper is not always better.
Wood warps because of the orientation of the grain and the effects of moisture. If you “unwarp” it, it will warp again, left to it’s own devices. For applications where you really need straight wood, pay more for the good stuff up front and you will save in the long run. Or, buy a planer.
Having said that, I will add that the manner in which the wood is warped makes a big difference. If the 1" side is straight on a 1" x 4", any bow in the 4" side can usually be taken out easily on installation and kept out (or in if needed) by proper placement of cross bracing.
I use the David Barrow “domino” system of benchwork which essentially means creating a series of identically sized 2’ by 4’ segments and bolting them together. With enough bracing and plenty of good drywall screws, reasonably warped 1x4 wood can be “forced” to shape, screwed together, and used. But if you unscrew a piece … “sprong” it retakes its old warp.
So I guess what I am saying is one way to minimize the effects of warp on 1x4 pine is to use shorter pieces., and force it straight long enough to screw it together with cross pieces as bracing.
I might add that it is easy to say “never use warped wood, throw it away.” Just try going to the lumber yard these days and buying wood that is NOT warped! The worst are the 2x2 pine that I use for legs. Some of them look like bacon strips. When I gave a clinic on my benchwork I chose the worst of the 2x2 pieces and held it up saying “you know this would not make a bad template for large radius easement curves …”
Dave Nelson
I would really caution you about using anything but the best lumber in a helix. Using slightly warped lumber in straight open sections(or slightly curved sections) will probably work, but radius sections especially need to be as perfect as possible to prevent derailment. Crawling under the benchwork and into the helix to rerail a train (that hopefully didn’t fall to the floor is no fun for anyone.
just my two cents
Randy Johnson
well one this is the benchwork, and there is not going to be a hole in the middle of the table to get throught, the helix will be open.
The way I look at it is my car comes first. (period no hands down) The train layout gives me too much headache and i’m tired of putting more money into benchwork. I have a 10.5X14 foot room and i’ve put hundereds into it already, and i haven’t even started laying track yet.
My point? I’m tired of spending money on it, and if I have to put as much as $50 more into it, I won’t.
That sounds pretty definite. So, since Mother Necessity’s offspring is invention, go to it!