I was on your site and was looking at your Helix.(Nice web site). I was wondering if you could tell me some of the demetions and how you built it. I am in the process of designing a multy layer layout and would like some pointers.
Derrick,
Thanks for visiting my website and signing my guest book. Despite horror stories to the contrary, I really like my helix and have had no problems with it whatsoever. It was quite a construction chore, but it went together easily. The helix is built from 1/2-inch plywood and takes up a space 6-feet square. The outside track has a radius of 34 inches and the inside track has a 31 inch radius. The inside radius of the plywood is 29 inches and the outside is 36. There is a 3-inch clearance between the levels which are separated by wooden spacer blocks I cut on a miter saw. Once you get the first loop built, it is a simple matter of using the spacers to build off of it. The worst part was cutting the arches from the plywood with a jigsaw. Just remember you are laying track as you build. I’ve only had two locomotives out of 100+ which could not pull 15 cars up the helix. Those two were quietly removed from the pike.
In my experience, the worst part of a helix is keeping the track clean. However, if you run your trains often, especially with a track cleaning car like the one by Aztec, it should be a non-issue. The most common complaint I hear about having a helix is the amount of hidden time spent in one. On mine it takes about 90 seconds to go from one level to another at scale speed. No big deal to me. I also thought that would simulate the unmodeled miles on my layout between Edna, MS (fictional) and New Orleans nicely. This is the largest distance in terms of scale miles traversed between towns. The helix represents this time warp beautifully. My helix is also in full view of the operators which I opted to do because, according to friends, it’s just so darn cool to watch!
Hope this helps and good luck with your multi-deck layout. Keep me up to date on your progress!!
Cliff
Thanks cliff This help me alot .
One Question 3’’ seams pretty close. Will the double stack containers clear this.
No they won’t. I model 1955, so my rolling stock can handle the 3-inch separation with no problems. You could go 3 1/2 inches which may work better, but I would caution against going much more. The reason being that it creates a steeper grade which may cause you some problems. Keep in mind you already have to figure in the thickness of the plywood when calculating grade. If you build using my methods, you could temporarily use different length spacers for the first few layers to experiment with slippage. Of course since you model the modern era, big diesels in multi-unit lash-ups will probably pull 20+ cars up a steeper grade with ease.
one more question cliff
Did you cut you plywood in halfmoon or quarter? And how did you fasten them together.
Cliff - If I could ride along on this thread and ask a few questions of my own. Very impressive layout. I just watched your videos for the forth time as I enjoyed a cup of tea. The Helix is impressive! I planned on buying a EasyHelix but after seeing how simple (it could be) it looks I may try it on my own and save a bunch of money. My question is how do you run the wiring under the helix without encroaching on your 3 in clearance? Do you use suitcase connectors under the helix as well. Maybe at your convenience you could take a pic of a section of the underside of the helix so I could get a clear idea of how to run the wiring. What degree of grade does the 3 in between sections give you? Thank you for being so generous and sharing your ideas and hard work with us.
Terry[8D]
I cut 2 half-moon segments from one piece of 4x8 plywood, thus yielding 1 complete lap per sheet of plywood. To join the sections, I used the same trim pieces I used to make the spacer blocks as splice plates. These were secured with carpenter’s glue which was clamped overnight to dry. This method was also used to secure the supports in place.
Terry, it will probably come as a shock to you, but I have no wiring in the helix. When I built the helix, I planned on staying with DC and didn’t run any jumper wires to a bus. All of the joints on the sections of flex track are soldered, so I only have jumper wires to the very bottom and very top of the helix. Even though there is nearly 300 feet of trackage in the helix (double tracks), I have never experienced any continuity problems - even once I switched to DCC. Now that the helix is built, there is no way to have access to add a bus wire even if I wanted to. But I have found that to be unnecessary.
The grade in the helix is 1.63% for the outside (34") track and 1.79% for the inside (31") track. Not bad at all. [8D]
Cliff - Well that is certainly amazing. No wiring for 300 ft. That really simplifies things a bit. A real testament to the quality of your workmanship. Thanks for your info.
Terry[8D]
Yes thanks Cliff
This will help me a great deal. But i will paln for a few bus wires I think. Just to be on the safe side. I hope I may call on you again If I need a little help.
I agree with you. Truth be told, if I were to start over knowing I would have DCC from the get-go, I would plan for bus wires as well. I’m just thankful it hasn’t been an issue “cause there ain’t no fixin’ it now”! (that’s southern for “it’s too late”) [;)]
Call on me anytime, friend.