I’m a minister whose denomination moves me every 4-6 years. Consequently, after giving up layout after layout, I’ve finally decided to construct a totally modular layout in N scale. To do that, I need to determine which connectors, plugs, and switches (not turnouts) to use according to the amp ratings of each. Because of an impending move (hence my motivation for a modular layout) I’ve already packed all my locomotives and cannot determine the average amp load drawn by N scale equipment.
Does anyone know a good way to determine load ratings in amps drawn by N scale locomotives? I know it’s determined by the number of total amps drawn by the total number of locos but what does the usual N scale loco draw in amps? Also, how critical is a connector, plug, or switch rating?
Thanks in advance for the help.
H.L.
If you buy 110 volt house plugs,connectors and swiitches they will all be raterd at 15 amps which is way more than you should need. Also various items from Radio Shack will usually be rated for 15 amps. These could include such things as RCA male and female plugs which could be used to connect wiring between modules. I believe N engines draw about 1 amp each or less so this should give you a large margin of safty.
Ray
Most newer locomotives, both N and HO, draw one Amp or less current, so the Amperage rating of electrical components such as toggle switches, plugs and sockets, etc. is usually of no concern. Even sub-miniature toggle switches are usually rated at 3 Amps, and these ratings are typically for AC voltages. A small toggle switch rated at 3 Amps, 125VAC should be able to withstand any DC load that might be applied to it short of trying to run 10 locomotives simultaneously.
You can use an ammeter to determine the amps drawn by each locomotive. Check it under load so you can see what’s typical and at stall to see the max. This is only a problem if you run several locos at once in the same electrical block. If the layout is divided into blocks then your connecters only carry the current the locos in that block are drawing. If you are planning on dcc, then the size of the power supply is what you have to cover.
Enjoy
Paul
The only thing to avoid is connectors made for computer wiring. Many are only rated for 5 or 12 volts and low amperage. Using industrial connectors or automotive connectors wiould be safe but it may be cheaper to just install a terminal block at either end of the module and loop a connecting wire to each terminal accross the gap. They can be had much cheper than connectors. No need to take the jumpers off completely when you dismantle. Just back the screws off on one side and leave them attached to one section.
Howdy preacher!..amp ratings for your layout power should not be a concern if you use stuff from most parts houses…just look at your power pack and be sure that the equipment you buy is not rated for anything LESS than what your power pack is rated for…usually the power pack is rated in volt/amps so just divide it by 12 and you’ll get your amperage rating…it should be ok anything you buy …where to fret is if you are using parts for electronic circuits…like nand gates or hex inverters, ic’s… stuff like that…that’s where you must be concerned about amp ratings…most locomotives pull between 1/2 amp to as much as 1.5 amps…Chuck
NO!
Do not under any circumstances use 110VAC / 15A household plugs and receptacles for low-voltage model railroad wiring! Doing so runs the risk of the layout wiring being plugged into the house wiring with potentially lethal results.
Using household plugs in this way is a violation of the National Building Code and the Canadian Electrical Code, and will void your insurance in the event of an electrical accident. In fact, in Canada this condition would void your insurance in the event of a fire of any origin. The terms of insurance policies in Canada clearly stipulate that all wiring in the house be up to code, and such mixing of devices and voltages is a clear code violation.
For most model railroad applications, 10A low-voltage devices such as switches will be fine, and are readily available at Radio Shack, automotive supply stores, and other such sources.
For plugs, look at automotive components such as 4-prong trailer plugs, which are designed for more than enough current at 12VDC, the same voltage model trains work at. You also could check with electrical supply houses for industrial-grade connectors with more than 4 pins, although these will cost much more than automotive components.
i got to see this!..somebody try’in to plug a micro SPST switch into a 110 v wall socket…I hope there is no one here that is that…well lets say …derranged?
It wasn’t the microswitch that I was speaking of, it was the suggestion to use household plugs and receptacles for low-voltage connections.
Let’s say you use these and someone who doesn’t know what’s what in the layout is visiting, and goes to look at the layout. They look around, find a plug, and plug it into the wall where they think it belongs. They try to put a locomotive on the track, touching the rails to do so.
This gives them a shock from hand to hand via the heart, and they die. No do-over, no apologies, just a funeral and a lawsuit from their next of kin.
They weren’t deranged, but they also didn’t know that there was 12VDC wiring built with 110VAC devices. Depending on how it’s done, the odds may be long, but the stakes are very high indeed - the life of everyone who subsequently encounters that wiring. That’s why the NBC and the CEC are more than suggestions.
NO!
Do not under any circumstances use 110VAC / 15A household plugs and receptacles for low-voltage model railroad wiring! Doing so runs the risk of the layout wiring being plugged into the house wiring with potentially lethal results.
Using household plugs in this way is a violation of the National Building Code and the Canadian Electrical Code, and will void your insurance in the event of an electrical accident. In fact, in Canada this condition would void your insurance in the event of a fire of any origin. The terms of insurance policies in Canada clearly stipulate that all wiring in the house be up to code, and such mixing of devices and voltages is a clear code violation.
When I was a teenager a few decades ago I did this on one of my stereo speakers figuring I could use a long extension cord to relocate the speaker. It worked but at one point I plugged the "wrong" extension cord into the wall outlet.
Zzappp!!!, no more stereo... (boy, was dad pissed...it was HIS portable stereo!)