Okay, I’ve been reading all the posts about nails vs caulk for securing track and roadbed. I’ve used nails before with mixed results, so I want to try caulk this time. … and lemme see if I have this straight…
Use Silcone based caulk for securing foam to plywood, foam to foam, and roadbed to the foam base, and latex caulk for securing track to roadbed.
Right?
Well, that’s what I do, so I’ll say YES!
Silicone caulk gives you the ultra-strong (and almost unbreakable) bond.
Latex caulk isn’t as strong, but does work extremely well, and will allow you to move/remove track components without destroying them.
Remember, the brand doesn’t really matter, so long as you get the 100% stuff. And although you’ll be tempted to use a lot, you won’t have to; a little goes a long way.
You just lay down a bead and smooth it with a putty knife for laying track, right? lay the track on the smoothed latex caulk?
I tried this for the first time this past week on the layout I was building for my son. I drew centerlines for the tracks, put down a bead of CLEAR, paintable latex caulk and spread it with a putty knife. Even though the caulk was white, I could still see the centerlines well enough through the caulk. I put the cork roadbed on the caulkand pressed it in. It held on 23" curves by itself except for the very last couple inches. I held them in line with some push pins (into plywood), all that’s needed is to keep the cork held to the line. Within a couple hrs the roadbed appeared very securely fastened. It was quick and easy. I will also glue down the flex track with it but not the switches. Applying it on the top of the cork I hope to be able to get a fairly thin coat. Once again I will use push pins to hold things in line until the caulk sets.
I have used 2 different brands. Whatever was the cheapest clear paintable latex caulk.
Dave H.
Yay, another convert! [:D]
If you CAN’T see your lines, you’re spreading it too thick. It really only takes a THIN layer to securely hold the track in place.
–Randy
I have had great results using clear silicone caulk that is sold in tubes for “aquarium sealant.” Just a thin dab every 3 inches or so holds down the cork and the same for track. Joe uses grey because it looks like ballast and if some ballast gets knocked off it doesn’t show so bad. ’ sounds like a plan to me!
Id have to agree with john colley, the grey caulk does look more lifelike and doesnt stick out as bad as does the white caulk.
True, but be mindful of what I said: the silicone caulk WON’T EVER LET GO! I made the mistake of laying an entire level of my layout with silicone caulk. While it worked great, once I had to move a section of track (don’t we all eventually?) I ended up destroying about two full pieces of Peco flextrack. Thankfully, I don’t use adhesvie under my switches!
J - your getting good advice, dont use the silicone for the track, not only is it more expensive and wont ever let go, it stinks and it will get everywhere as your using it, its tenacious stuff!
with the latex you can rinse your hands if neccessary along the way to keep things clean, a problem of mine - fat fingers!!! use the clear or gray, cant imagine trying to hide the white, of course the clear is white as it goes down, and since i do put a coat of latex paint on my cork first clear is fine/preferable,
one last thing, if you need to slide spare ties into the inevitable gaps in flex track sections do it right away or youll have to compensate for the extra height of the dried caulk.
I used liquid nails for the track to cork joint. I find it is much easier to get a fine bead spread. It has a good tack as well. Don’t use it on the foam, it will eat it. You can get LN for foam board, but I found cheap latex caulk worked just as well for the foam joints. Remember to remove any plastic film from the foam, especially the top layer where the cork is to be attatched.