Questions about Kadee uncouplers

Hi:

I get the basic idea - magnetic fields pull the couplers in opposite directions - but I’m looking for more info.

  1. Are the two magnetic poles aligned with the rails or the crossties?

  2. What it the difference between the “nondelayed” #312 and “delayed” #321 uncouplers - is one stronger?

  3. Looking at their operation diagrams, you can’t go from delayed (step 3) to uncoupled (step 4) without moving the cars apart, so why would you need two types of magnets? (Or rather, if you have to move the cars, why would you need two types of magnets?)

  4. Is there any advantage to the over track types other than visibility and ease in relocating?

Thanks,

KL

The answers are highlighted in red.

Hope this helps.

Tom

check www.kadee.com Look under product info.

Thanks Ned, I saw that, but it doesn’t show how the delayed and non-delayed differ in function, nor what makes a magnet delayed vs. non-delayed.

KL

Thanks Tom, but I still am missing something.

If

“Non-delayed will only allow you to uncouple the car over the magnet, thus requiring a magnet for each uncoupling location.”

and

“The magnet pulls the couplers apart. You back away from the car and the magnets pull the couplers even farther apart, creating an offset condition. When you ease back to the other car, you can push it anywhere ahead of you. For example, if you have three industries along one track, you can use one magnet before the first industry. Uncouple the cars and create the delayed (offset) position. Then you can push the car ahead to the desired industry, using only one magnet.”

Why couldn’t you uncouple over a non-delayed magnet, pull the engine away slightly, back into the dropped car’s coupler, and push it wherever you wanted, just as if it was a delayed magnet?

KL

Hi, Kurt

I can’t really answer that question since I have no experience with the non-delayed magnets. Perhaps someone else can jump in here and give the answer. Other than that, pick up a non-delayed magnet and try it. Sorry I could be of more help.

Tom

I think that the simple answer is, “Get the delayed ones.” They will work great. I have a number of them, and as long as they and the couplers are all adjusted properly, you will be very happy. I suspect that the non-delayed type are weaker, so they don’t shove the couplers apart enough for the “delayed” functionality to work reliably.

My word of caution is that these things really need a straight section of track to work. The track should be straight for at least one car-length on each side of the uncoupling magnet. You can cheat on this with long passenger cars with truck-mounted couplers. They’re a special case.

I fianlly remembered! The non-delayed magnets are narrower so they won’t pull the couplers far enough apart to set up for delay. Sorry to take so long figuring that out. I’m old and forgetful!

Tom

Ahh, that makes sense, but I note that they both use the same gluing jig, so they must be the same width. . . It does look like the delayed type has a steel intensifier plate though.

Thanks,

KL

I have never used the non-delayed magnets. However the delayed and non-delayed use different sides of the jig (top vs bottom - flip over to use), so there is a difference in the mounting. I do use the Kadee jigs.

Ok, yeah, I see that in the printing on the illustration. It looks like they don’t really devote much effort to the ND stuff on their site; old technology, I guess.

Thanks,

KL

Another warning:

The Kadee template for mounting the magnets puts them up just a bit above the rail heads. Experience has shown that some locomotives, in particular the popular P2K S1 switcher, has low clearance and will actually run aground if the magnets are placed as Kadee suggests. Instead, place the magnets so the top is even with the rail heads, and you’ll have no problems. There is still plenty of strength to activate the couplers. This does require grinding down the ties somewhat, even with code 100 track.

Warning #2: It’s a lot easier to grind down the ties to mount the magnets if you do it on your bench, rather than trying to do it to the tracks after they’re laid in place.

For an alternative to the Kadee magnets, check out http://mysite.verizon.net/the.regans/ . Look at magnetic uncoupling under construction details. Much easier to install than under the track magnets, and cheaper, too. Main drawback is limited range along the rails makes accurate spotting of cars to be uncoupled more critical than with the longer Kadee magnets. Wish I could take credit for brilliant ideas like this.

There are also some good sites on building your own electro-magnetic uncoupler.

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W

It is a neat idea, Fred. I wonder if two magnets were placed on each side of the track woulld it stil work and give one a larger area for uncoupling.

Tom

Another fellow was going to try for a line of 4 magnets on each side. We were trying to guess at the optimum magnet spacing. I never heard anything further from him as to how it turned out. I have not tried multiple magnets myself so it still remains open for experimentation and reporting.

Fred W

Thanks for the update, Fred.

Tom