Questions about weathering with chalks.....

Ok, I got the idea down about weathering with the chalks… My questons…[:)]

  1. What do you guys use to seal them up?

  2. I assume it is a spray aplication, a dull coat of some sort. When you spray, do you loose some of the coloring? Example: When I airbrush and seal with spray canned dullcoat, it will wash away about 30% of the airbrsh details (I dont seal my stuff anymore) Will I have the same problem with the chalks?

Any advice would be great! Thanks![:D]

Best Regards
John

Dullcote is the most common sealer. When you spray it on you lose about 90% of your chalks. Im still looking for a dullcote alternative but havent found anything yet.

Wowzers[:0]

I figured I would lose some, but not that much. Something I started was doing my own dull coat on with the airbrush. Alot better control with that, not nearly thick. But still any expeirence is glady taken! [:)] Teh 90% will make a good rule to work with.

I had practiced on an old Tyco box car with chalks. It looked pretty darn respectable too, then I sprayed it with dullcote, now it looks like it did when I started, just not shiney. I think if you weren’t going to handle the cars too much, you could get away without spraying them. It didn’t seem like I was losing any chalk to fingerprints.

Glenn

Weathering Powders don’t disappear with DullCote. Chalks are fine for buildings, but anything you handle needs to be sealed. DullCote is the standard, but there are flat clear acrylics also. They all make chalk dissapear. Weathering powders have a built in adhesive that makes them stick when brushed on. Put the term “Weathering Powders” into Walthers search and it will show you a few that they carry. I like the AIM powders.

Like I’ve said here before. You can’t do this with chalk!

I have the AIM powders too. They have adhesive. But the cheaper powders dont. The AIMs are a little expensive if your just getting started on weathering in my opinion.

When I run out of Bragdon, I’ll try the AIM powders all the other weather guys are so fond of.

I tried dullcoating the car FIRST then chalking it while the dullcoat was still tacky. Worked pretty well, and the next coat of dull didn’t wash anything away. I’ll try to replicate the results.

Ray

Go without the dullcote…honest.

I’m gonna have to try the AIM powder… I’ve tried dull coat over pastell chalks… gotten done and was like “Wheres the chalk?”

Good advice everyone … Kinda sounds like everyone is
split on the dullcote. problem, is they do get handled maybe more than most. either on and off the lay out, or transported to club events. I will look into the weathering powder. the AIM stuff.

Up till this point, I have been doing all airbrushing which I like alot[8D], but want to get more details for some of my cars. I think the next step is the powders…

Aggro, what do you use and or combonation of ?

I saw some one post to use a Krylon spray fixative over the “chalk” DON’T EVER TRY THIS!!! It turns white and looks terrible! Go with the adhesive weathering powders as mentioned above for locos and cars. Chalks and pastels work good for buildings and track weathering.

I’ve always used the chalks in the past. I too found that you would loose a lot of the effect, as well as a marked darkening of the overall color.

For the color problem I just used chalks that were a shade or two lighter then I wanted the final effect to be.

For the loss of effect I tried lots of stuff. What I found worked best was to warm the spray can in warm water for a bit. That helps the paint to settle on the surface of your work better. Then hold the can quite far from your model when spraying. You want the paint to be almost dry when it hits the surface of the model. This helps with the color issue and it eliminates the problem of the chalks moving on the surface of the model. You just want a mist coat for the first two or three coats. You don’t have to have an entirely wet surface when you’re done with each coat.

After that, one regular light coat of dullcoat and you’re done.

I’ve had good results from this method.

The weathering powders look interesting. Maybe I’ll give that a shot and do a heads-up comparison.

There is a big difference between CHALKS & WEATHERING POWDERS. One will come off almost completly (chalks). The powders will stay on a lot better then chalks when finishing with Dullcoat. Spend a few extra dollars and get a quality product like BRAGDON or AIM.. They last a long time. I have had my Bragdon powders for 2 years now and haven’t used 15% of them.

Try the chalks, but don’t miss the opportunity to learn how to weather with artists acrylic craft paints. You make a wash, a heavy one, and wipe most of the wash off the brush. then you do a few light strokes over the area to be weathered, and let it dry. If you like how it looks, Dull-Coat it and you are done. I did an engine in chalks, and will admit that I have more to learn. However, my turntable bridge girders turned out very nicely with a mixture of yellow, gray, and burnt umber acrylic.

Alright,…I’m gonna take your advice. I’m holding you to it now that I’ll give up chalks forever (almost). I’ll just have you know that I like them alot and have been using them for almost 20 years. I’m fairily attached to them by now, but everyone keeps saying how good these powders are, so, what the heck…[8D]

pcarrell,

Man you are putting me on the spot [:D]. If you read the websight Bragdon powders are made from the real thing. They are 100 times finer then chalk. Also they have a pressure sensitive additive added to them so they stay put.

Click and read below.

http://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm

The kit I have is made up of all the colors you could possibly need, it is below.

FF-R12 WEATHER SYSTEM brand Small Twelve color KIT.

I’m just messin’ with ya. it sounds like it is definately worth checking out. Thanks for the link. [8D]