Today I made a decision. I’ve been contemplating it for a while but today I sort of took the plunge by selling some Atlas track that I had left.
I’ve decided that for the next layout which the room for will be constructed this summer will have the best rail and turnouts I can get. So I’ve decided on Micron Engineering track and Fast tracks turnout jigs. But as usual before taking a plunge like this with shipping across the Atlantic and no turning back I have some questions that I hope you can help me with.
First of, I model the B&O in the 50’s, so I assume that C70 would be the most correct track for this? Am I right?
Second, I would like to use a smaller size code on industry tracks and ME sells C55. Now, the problem is that I don’t think I’ve ever read on any product description that any engines or rolling stock will function on it? How does C55 go together with normal American equipment like say PCM Big boys, Walthers heavyweights and so on?
Now for some questions about the fast track jigs.
if I get one of the complete sets, say #8 C70, is all I need to build another version, say a #6 to get the fixture?
And another question: I want to order all i need at once since shipping is expensive. I also want to use loose ties rather then those complete ready made ties. Should I then get this:
I can’t help you with the fast tracks jig questions because I build all my turnouts without their jigs, but ME code 55 HO flex track will work fine with all HO equipment that has RP25 flanges. Older Rivarossi or IHC equipment with what are uncharitably called pizza-cutter flanges will not like the small rail.
I’d suggest code 83 for 1950’s. In the 50’s large steam power was still present and needed a bit heavier rai. However, B&O may have been an exception in which case the code 70 would be good. Once installed the code 70 will look darned fine.
Another benefit to ME track and rail over atlas is the width of the railhead is smaller and closer to prototype. Atlas rail is a bit too wide on the railhead. Not a big difference unless you’re thinking of up close and personal photography showing clearly showing the tops of the rail.
Here’s what code 70 ME flex can look like (outdoors with natural sunlight).
Magnus, it is not likely that you can use any of the two jigs, points filing or the turnout template, with a mixture of Code sizes. So, if you want #6 turnouts in Code 70, you will have to have the right stock, two jigs, and the PCB ties will work in all of them. You get a small bag of perhaps 50 PCB ties. You will also get the tie kit that you glue as a whole unit to the underside of each turntou…I believe it is 6 per purchase.
Tim and Co. will ship you the two jigs, the bag of PCB ties, and the laser cut wooden tie units (I forget what term he uses for the tie kits). He include some very fine solder. Other than that, you must have rail stock, or get it, and the same for a soldering iron and flux. You’ll also need several needle files and a good sized, and newish, flat file for metal.
The B&O in the 1950’s would be using rail over 100 lbs per yard, which would be closer to code 83 than code 70 (which is about 90 lbs/yard). So if you are modeling a main line then use code 83 and code 70, if you are modeling a branch line then use code 70 with maybe som industry tracks code 55 (about 75 lb rail).
For every turnout size/rail combo, you’ll want the turnout jig, and the pointform tool. There may be some rail sizes that can use the some fixture, just check the site. As far as the number of ties you need, you can count them on the downloadable templates. The easy answer is lots, order extra, they are not that expensive!
When I got my stuff, I found it cheaper to get the complete kit, which included a few of the Quick Sticks, and then extra rail and individual ties. If budget wasn’t an issue I’d use all Quick Sticks, I find that cutting and placing the ties takes longer than the rest of the turnoug construction!
The Fast Tracks guys are really helpful, e-mail them, and I’m sure they’ll answer anay other questions, and might be able to lead you to the most economical and efficient choices!
Thanks for the info. I have e-mailed them but this forum usually replies faster.
The pointform tool, is that different between different turnouts? My thought was that I could use the same one and just ad fixtures from the same code? Is it not so?
The quicksticks looks great. But I feel that if I can save that cash, and the problem of getting more from Canada when I run out by using normal ties then that is a better option for me. I do not mind if it takes some time, in fact I enjoy these kind of things a lot.
As you say they are cheap, so if/when I order I will make sure to get a huge supply, 2000 or something. The cost is nothing in comparison to what it will cost me to get new ones. Same with PC board ties and the ME rail. How many 18" rails get used for each turnout? I’m planning on constructing atleast 50 which is a good reason to keep costs down.
I have to disagree. Taking the AREA rail heights and weights from a Nov 1962 Model Railroader Clinic article, I come up with:
PRR 152lb 8.000in code 92
AREA 132lb 7.125in code 82
AREA 115lb 6.625in code 76
AREA 100lb 6.000in code 69
ASCE 90lb 5.375in code 62
ASCE 80lb 5.000in code 57
ASCE 75lb 4.812in code 55
ASCE 70lb 4.625in code 53
ASCE 65lb 4.438in code 51
ASCE 60lb 4.250in code 49
ASCE 50lb 3.875in code 45
ASCE 40lb 3.500in code 40
As the above shows, a real handy size for those of us who model 19th Century or narrow gauge where 65lb rail was common, code 50 would be a real nice size to have. Code 70 is a good match for 100lb rail by height, and is probably a better fit for 115lb rail (a common main line rail size in the '20s) than code 83, especially given that some code 83 rail (Atlas in particular) has a rail head that is wider than scale.
I have built close to 100 turnouts using the Fasttracks jigs. I use the # 4,5,and 6 jigs. I purchased the complete #5 kit originally,then a #6 jig only. I use the point and frog forming tool included in the #5 kit for my #6 turnouts without any issue at all,the angle that needs to be filed off each rail is minor between the two sizes. However,for the #4 I purchased a #4 jig and a #4 point/frog filing tool. I have also used the jigs to build cutom turnouts,ie,I build the frog using the forming tool and jig,and build the rest of the turnout in place on the layout to the particular requirements of the situation. I highly reccommend these jigs. In the past I have always handlaid my track and turnouts,but these jigs make it faster and accurate,and for standard sizes,you can mass produce at the workbench and install them like a store bought item.
Good luck,I’m sure you won’t regret going in this direction.
That sounds great. What you are doing is something that I hope to be able to do one day.
I have another question. What would be the most appropriate frog number for a yard? I’ve used #8 in the past but I’m thinking of going with #6’s. To explain why I do get these long ones is because I like passenger cars more then anything else and large steam engines. But which frog number do you guys recommend?
The Fast Tracks turnouts use the NMRA RPs for turnout design. So turning there for specs and recommendations (http://www.nmra.com/standards/sandrp/rp12_3.html), we see that dimesnion 6 is the radius of curved stock rail and point, and dimension 11 is the radius of the closure rail. These should be matched to your curve radius around the turnout. A #6 turnout has 43" radius at both places.
The gotcha is when an S curve is formed by a cross-over between 2 parallel tracks. If track spacing is reasonable there is not enough straight track between the the two opposite facing curved turnouts, and long passenger cars will have difficulty. In those situations, a higher-numbered turnout is usually recommended.
RP-11 (http://www.nmra.com/standards/sandrp/rp-11.html) has the NMRA’s recommendation for minimum radius and turnout depending on equipment operated. Read the notes carefully. Model railroaders can and do operate successfully with sharper curves and turnouts than indicated, and most manufacturers accommodate this. But…
Thanks a lot for that, it is now bookmarked for future use. If I read this right I should really have a minimum of #7 turnouts considering my appetite for large passenger trains. Then I might as well save me some money and just get #8’s all a long. I could use #6’s on industrial track where only freight cars will be present.
A #6 should be generously adequate for even passenger cars and piggybacks (I guess no double-stacks in the 1950s) – except for double-track crossovers with that S-curve situation.
Is it possible to run some experiments with your equipment? A double-track crossover is something negotiated at reduced speed anyway. I cheat and put crossovers into main-route curve entrances to cut down on the S-curve effect.
Fine-scale purism is making too much of the rail height – with the right ballasting, the rail height is not much an issue either way.
Something to think about, Magnus: the ground throws have a small plastic tab that drops down into a hole you must provide in the throwbar. That tab moves back and forth, toward and away from the turnout (the axis of the throwbar, in other words) a defined distance. When you make your Fast Tracks turnouts, you will have to ensure that the points are soldered to their throwbars at precisely the place/spcaing that would have the ground throw snugging up the points tight to their stock rails. Do you follow? This will take some learning…and patience, so be warned.
In that respect, it is likely that the only ground throw that Caboose makes that will save you a lot of trouble is the sprung ones.
I went in at the deep end of the pool. I ordered the #8 jig and stuff for approximately 50 turnouts or so. I expect to destroy a few in the learning process but I’m willing to pay that price. I also elected not to get the quik sticks but rather lay the individual ties my self.
So wish me luck! And thanks everyone who have helped me out with this.
