Since I’m starting construction on my new layout soon, I want to get answers for a few questions.
First, I am using masonite splines for roadbed, do I need to put cork on top?
Second, if I use sculptamold for the ground do I need hardshell or foam underneath, or can I just spread sculptamold over window screen for landforms?
Thanks in advance.
First, you don’t need to, but I would still recommend it to get the shoulder profile you’ll want before you ballast. Either that or use a router to form the shoulder at the edge of the spline as Joe Fugate demonstrates in one of his videos. Make that strongly recommend.
Also, take a hint borne of hard-won experience…spend a good amount of time planing your spline surfaces smooth. Any bumps will cause you grief later. Get it even! And level if not intended to be banked.
Yes to the aluminum or plastic window screen and hardshell. I think using much of it over foam would be wasteful. Maybe over joints and cracks, sure, but not as a general cover. Use a hot glue gun to glue the edges of pre-cut window screen sections to the sides of the frame and the splines. Then goop on something that you like and try to smooth it somewhat…not pudding flat, but not knobby either.
You sound like you are at the same stage as I am. After lots of asking questions on this forum and from people at train shows and home layouts I will be proceeding this way. I am going to lay the track directly on the spline after smoothing it with a belt sander. The belt sander part seems to be the most important thing you can do according to all the people I’ve talked to. Even if you need to rent one it is worth it. Make sure you sand along the spline and not across it to avoid making dips in the roadbed.
As far as bevelling the edge just make your final cut with the saw blade on a 45 degree angle and use those strips on the outside for the shoulders. I think that’s how Joe Fugate did it with his. And the most important thing you can do is keep us posted on your progress as I am definitely still learning.
Brent
If you are going lay your track (handlaid, flextrack, or whatever) using spikes, install homasote on the splines so you will be able.
Mark
That’s a good idea to precut the bevel on the splines. I shouldn’t need to worry about spiking since I was going to use caulk to lay track.
I guess I need to clarify the second question, What I’m asking is if sculptamold is good to make hardshell with or if I need a layer of plaster underneath.
You will get lots of progress updates since the layout will be sectional. I hope to start the benchwork tomorrow morning. It is aluminum to help keep weight down. I have already started making trees and practicing casting and painting rocks.
Hearty second!
Try using a sure form plane for finishing the surface. That and a torpedo level. You’ll be pleasantly surprised how quickly it will go and how much control you have. I finished my first 60’ of spline roadbed in less than 2 hours this way. A belt sander can easily remove a lot of material very quickly and kicks out huge amount of sawdust.
Chad
You need something substantial under sculptamold or it tends to flex and crack. Window screen wouldn’t be firm enough by itself. Hardshell should be ok. I personally prefer cardboard strips and plaster cloth as my base and then add a layer of sculptamold for the finish coat.
Joe
Hi Chad: How large an area are you planning to scenic? If it’s going to be fairly large, Sculptamold can be pretty pricey. You might want to consider using Structolite or Gypsolite as a plaster base. Personally, I used a mix of Structolite/Gypsolite and Sculptamold (approx. a 4 to 1 ratio). It will give you a hard shell that’s fairly light and a nice “earth” texture. Just my opinion.
I personally like Sculptamold a lot.
I use it over plaster cloth on cardboard webbing.
I suppose you could put it over screen, but I think you’d have a lot of issues with drippage.
You would probably need to use twice as much Sculptamold as well to account for that which oozed into the screening.
I also only use Sculptamold in rocky, barren areas – not over the whole layout.
If I can I want to use the fiberglass tape they use to make casts with. If I cant find it I can just use plaster cloth or paper towels and plaster.
The area I’m going to scenic is around 6’x18". It will be the first section of the new layout.
Here is the first progress update. The benchwork for the first section is now done. It is aluminum angle and channel with 1/4" Ply inbetween. The bench is really light but still rigid so it should result in a good portable section. I temporarily clamped the spline together with a few C-clamps. For now it is resting on the channels but will be elevated a few inches on risers. Here is a pic.
This pic shows the structure of the benchwork better. It is similar to L-girder. There are two angles running the length of the section with channels as joists. The plywood works as a diagonal brace.
To keep the roadbed smooth over section joints, I’m staggering each spline so that each section’s roadbed will fit into the next. Eventuall the joints will be pinned and bolted together. Here’s a mock up of what I mean.
Keep watching for updates. The roadbed should go in soon.
Hi Chad,
I don’t use cork on top of my masonite spline roadbed (my masonite spline page).
However, Lee Nicholas (Utah Colorado Western) does use cork on top of his masonite spline roadbed (he also glues the splines with hot glue dramatically reducing the time spent wating for yellow glue to dry and the number of clamps required).
I used sculptamold in the past. Now I’m using a 50/50 mixture of US Gypsum No.1 Casting Plaster and Vermiculite spread about 1/4" thick over cardboard mesh covered with masking tape (an offshoot of Joe Fugate’s methods). The plaster has the advantage of being plaster so it sets instead of dries so thick areas, when needed aren’t an issue. With Sculptamold I found 1/4" was the absolute thickest I could apply it without it taking forever to dry. I resorted to putting some fans in place to circulate air over the Sculptamold.
If you can find the Vermiculite in your area (Lowe’s had it where I live) for a decent price, it and the plaster (available in 50lb bags from ceramics dealers - HD and Lowes don’t carry it) ought to be significantly cheaper than Sculptamold from the hobby store. And the No.1 casting plaster doesn’t shrink (at least not much - no shrinkage cracks).
All that said, I still use the Sculptamold here in there for fixing little contour problems. Because it has all those threads in it I found it to be good a resisting cracking.
If you spread the Sculptmold 1/4" thick over the screen I’
Thanks for your reply Charlie. Your webpage on splines was what convinced me to try them in the first place. I’ll have to look for the plaster and vermiculite.
I have gotten farther along in construction. The splines are done and Rt. 82 is installed paralleling the tracks. Here is a pic.
Construction will be held up a few days since I need to order ME Flextrack. When I start the scenery I think I will use cardboard strips. I will attach them between the fascia and the road and between the road and the splines but what do I do for the back edge. The sections won’t have an integral backdrop so there is nowhere to attach those strips to.
Here is a trackplan incase you were wondering how this would end up. It is slightly wrong since I actually added a slight curve at the right side and I revised my method of section joints. The Fascia will also most likely end up as a straight edge.
Thanks,
Chad