I am planning an N scale mantle piece setup 18" X 8’ and need to know, in detail, what track/product to use to get the narrowest radius I can (10 or so inches). I know that’s not to true scale, but I’m dealing with a narrow space (p.s. what’s the max incline for this scale?)
I’d go to the Atlas site & download their Right Track software. You have a choice of flextrak or their standard sectional trak. Minimum radius is 9 3/4", then 11" and 18" to go with Atlas turnouts. Your 18" would be too narrow by 1.5". You will need at least 24" at the ends to look something like a dogbone with the 8’ run. I like to keep the track 2" from the edge, especially on sharp curves.
A new idea for small layouts is to use the Kato track. I think they also use 9 3/4" radius.
Max space for modern equipment is about 2" between layers.
well…I’m sure some of our N-scalers would like to knmow what equipement you plan to run, as that will limit the minimum curves yuo can run safely.
The minimum turning radius is 9 3/4 in. wich means a minimum turnaround area of at least 20 in.(19 1/2 in. being the center of the track),and that would also mean running your trains on the very edge of your shelf both sides.
I suggest building a fold down extension at both ends of your shelf that wouldn’t be in the way when not in use,or even better,have a full length fold down shelf attached to the side of your actual shelf.This would allow you to have nice curves along with some scenery.
If this is not possible,you could have a removeable section that you’d stow away.Electrical supply to the track could be via quick disconnect plugs,etc.Precision is essential in designing either,however,so that your track joints match very precisely,since “N” is very sensitive to track misalignments.Have fun…
It is the same for all scales; as you increase the grade, the number of cars that a given locomotive. Generally, most will recommend 2% as a max. Personally, I have no issue with 4% - just add more locomotives. The famous Saluda grade on the former Southern (Norfolk-Southern, currently not used) has a bit that is over 5%.
The most important thing is to have a smooth transition between different grades.
You don’t have to run trains around in circles, consider building a switching layout.
If you are willing to run only 40’ or shorter cars and use small locos, you could go as tight as 7 1/2" radius.
Indeed, DSchmitt is correct–if you’ve got a small space, why bother with loops at all? 18" is probably too narrow a shelf for a loop, even in N scale. 7-1/2" would barely fit in the space. You could also have quite a shelf layout in that space, with more than enough space for a turntable for turning locomotives.
The minimum radius I use is 9 3/4".
Z scale (1:220): minimum radius, either on the small diorama on which I’m presently working and on my soon started future layout, my minimum radius will be 19" (490 mm).
Cheers,
Dominique
That RULES.
19" minimum radius would be about the same as 48" radius in HO!!
Personally, I like my 12" radius HO curves. But us traction people are like that.
In N scale I’ve managed to get an RS1 with a 40’ car around a 6" radius. A GP9 is too long, the car and loco wouldn’t stay coupled, but the loco could make it by its self. Both locos had body mounted micro trains couplers, the car had truck mounted micro trains.
In the late 60’s 7 1/2" radius was commenly used. Locos and cars had truck mounted rapido couplers.