Does anyone have problems with rail joiners holding track in alignment? I am using Atlas code 83 rail joiners to align code 83 flex track. These grip the web of the track tightly but do not restrict up or down movement, allowing the tops of the rail to be uneven. What are some suggestions?
Thank You
Donald Carman
Like you, I use Atlas Code 83 rail joiners to hold pieces of Atlas Code 83 flex track together.
The main advantages of rail joiners are that they carry the electrical power from track section to track section and keep the rails in alignment horizontally…
One disadvantage of rail joiners is that they are poor conductors of electrical current as they loosen, oxidize, or get insulated by landscaping glues or whatever. The solution is to solder the rail joiners in place to ensure continuity.
Another disadvantage of rail joiners is that they don’t restrain the track sections from moving up and down vertically and they don’t prevent the rails from kinking on curves. Once again, the solution is to solder the rail joiners on curves. As to the vertical movement of the rails, the solution is to nail down the flex track or caulk it in place.
Rich
Rail joiners are not intended to hold rails in line but rather make a mechanical connection between the two rails the rails should remain in gage by the ties holding them in place, the up and own alignment f you will is achieved by properly securing the track to the roadbed.Gluing the track to the roadbed surface is the best/most reliable method of doing this. Track nails if used in my o/p are only used until the glue dries and should not be sues as a sole means of securing track to roadbed as the will eventually pull out if only anchored in to the roadbed. I prefer to solder only one side of the rail joiner this allows for expansion and contraction, alternating sides. One issue a lot of rail joiners have is the fit too loosely so once in place you have to push down on the side with a flat blade screw driver. A good source of information regarding track and the proper way to lay it etc. is the NMRA website. You should check it out tons of great information
The best cure for kinking in curves is to make sure the two flex track joints do not occur at the same place. Let the movable rail slide into the next piece instead of cutting it off.
I learned that from a post in these forums. I apologize that I do not remember who posted it. It, however, works like a charm.
For curves, I solder two pieces of flex track together so it isn’t just the joiner holding things together. These are the only track joints I solder. This also keeps the joints from lining up, unless you’d force teh sliding rail around to MAKE them line up. If they start lines up while strainght, and you solder them, they will naturally offset as you bend the track to the curve.
–Randy
YEP
Sounds like something I might have said - several times - a few years ago.
IMHO, the real key is to pre-bend the flex, with the fixed rail to the outside. Even super-flexible Atlas Code 100 will hold a curve after some gentle persuasion. I have one length that has survived two hot summers pre-bent to <14 inch radius, not fastened to anything.
Unless you solder your rail joiners (which I DON’T, because of rail expansion issues) you shouldn’t rely on them to provide either mechanical or electrical connection. The rail ends should be aligned whether or not there’s a joiner present. As for electrical continuity, either solder a jumper around each joint or have a power drop soldered to each length of rail. Admittedly, this sounds like overkill, but nothing will spoil your fun as quickly as unreliable electricals.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I’ve been soldering every joint for 30+ years (including turnouts - I’ve only had to replace one in all that time and I simply cut it out with a cutoff disc). I did have some slight kinking in the first year as the layout aclimitized. The kinks were fixed by cutting gaps in the rails which allowed the rails to come back into alignment, I then added small jumpers across the gaps for electrical continuity, (I have 20 guage drops every 10-12 feet to a 12 guage buss, I have never had any issues with power distribution… The real trick is to get the track ballasted asap, which locks everything into place.
Properly align the rails and solder the joiners in place. This will you two advantages. One electrical and one mechanical. The electrical advantage is that the electricity will be transmitted from rail to rail through a solid connection. The mechanical advantage is that the rail ends will be locked in place thus guaranteeing that the rail heads will be at the same height in relation to each other.