Rail-Joining For Dummies, Part I:

I’m ready to start wiring my HO layout, and I know it’s a bad idea to solder every rail joint since that could lead to kinking and other undesirable side effects from heat, humidity, etc. My question is:

What is the maximum length I could safely solder two or more sections of track together, without problems, if I leave a gap of 1/32" on the each of un-soldered joints?

Hi Ken,

I think the answer to your question can be found in this thread: http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=2&TOPIC_ID=42257

Particularly check out jfugate’s posts.

Thanx Ray. There are still some things I don’t understand about Joe’s post, for example: What is a “points end”?

In a word, the single end. He is talking about the points of the switch, the part that moves and has the pointed rails that move from side to side as opposed to the “frog” end of the switch where the rails cross. (and there are two sets of tracks). Hope his helps.

Ken:

I’m assuming you know some of the basics of model train wiring in my posts, so I don’t bother explaining the basic basics.

You will really get a jump start on things if you go buy this book:


http://store.yahoo.net/kalmbachcatalog/12212.html

No, I don’t work for Kalmbach … but I do know Rick Selby (he’s a semi-regular operator on the Siskiyou Line) and this is a great book on all the basics. Read this book and a lot of the other posts on this forum around things electrical will make a lot more sense. [:D]

We’re happy to explain things to you as we go on here, but this book will fill in all the gaps on things we don’t happen to discuss or you don’ t happen to ask.

Believe me, getting this book will be the best $20 you ever spent on the hobby.

[:I][D)][:I] OK…I went out and bought me one…! [:I][D)][:I]

I guess if there’s anything worse than not knowing, it’s knowing how to do something the wrong way for 15+ years…

Thanx Joe and Ray!