I am planning on making a gondola load from some old steel rail someone gave me. It is a bit rusty, so I know I have to clean it up before painting it. Couple of questions on the best way to do things.
What is the best way to cut steel rail?
Is a 39’ length correct?
After I get it cleaned up, should I give it a primer coat?
For new rail being delivered, is something like rail brown the best color?
Would they have used 2x or 4x lumber between the layers of rail?
Was the rail set close together in each layer or space between for a chain to lift?
Any ideas on how many rails in a load, so as not to overload a 40’ gondola? I know there is a difference in weight of rails, figure mainline rail in the 50’s.
I’ll probably think of more questions when I get working on it, but these will get me started.
I’ve cut it with diagonal cutting pliers (“Dikes”) and by giving it a sharp bend railhead-to-base. It cleans up with standard files.
Scrap rail would be various lengths up to 39 feet. New rail would be more regular. Of course, the usual length for REALLY new rail is 1440 feet.
I’d follow the instructions given by the paint manufacturer.
Rail brown is good for cosmoline-coated rail. I’ve seen some new rail that was dry and colored gunmetal grey. If in doubt, try to get a look at your prototype’s equivalent.
Probably something more substantial than 2x4. I’ve seen fairly wide 4-by and old ties used.
Probably rail bases touching. A lot of rail is handled by forklift, and individual rails can be separated out with prybars.
If you are cutting up Code 100 rail in HO, that’s 155#/yd stock. (Actually, it’s oversize for Pennsy monster-rail.) Code 83 comes in about right for 1950’s mainline re-lay, which was in the 132#/yd range. The latter weighs abo