Just putting together an order to MicroMark (faster than travelling to the city to find they don’t have everything that I want).
Are the rail cutters as advertised…neat, clean, flush, little need for dressing with a file? I use a dremel with a 1" wheel, but would prefer a cutter if they work.
Any other “must have” items from that/any store before I start laying track on the new expansion?
Looking at the devices for laying aligning flex track and spacing yard track. I just use a yard stick and long level in the past for a straight edge and for marking out radii with a pencil hole drilled through opposite a pin at the other end.
Suitcase connectors? I use screw terminals. Should I switch?
Not a matter of life and death post…just getting my ducks in a row so to speak before track laying on the expansion. Don’t want to be behind the [8] in the middle of things. I like to lay in the materials as completely as possible. How’s that for mixed metaphors?
Depending on the circumstances, I use both the Dremel cutting wheel and a flush cutter. I use the flush cutter to prepare track before putting it down permanently. Just a word of advice, cut the rail from top to bottom, not side to side-it will be much easier to dress to shape with a small file. I use the Dremel to cut isolation gaps at turnouts.
Instead of suitcase connectors, I like Posi-Tap connectors. They are much easier and quicker to install, require no tools other than a wire stripper, and can be reused if needed. Screw terminals have their place but it seems like a lot of work to use them just to tap into a buss. I only use them between modules with jumpers.
If you are speaking of these, http://www.micromark.com/XURON-TRACK-CUTTER,9199.html, I have a pair and they work well. You have to resist the temptation to cut other things with them, such as wire. There is always a little dressing up with a small file required, no matter what they say. The cutter works well versus the Dremel if you are holding the item to be cut in your hand. You can shave off much finer slices than with the Dremel. However, if the track you are cutting is nailed down, or if you are cutting gaps, then the Dremel is the tool.
The thing I don’t like about the Dremel wheel is that the thin wheels that would make a smaller gap are very fragile. One awkward movement of the hand leads to a shattered wheel. And the thicker wheels leave a little larger gap than I’d like. The other thing that I don’t like is that the body of my Dremel does not allow me to make a cut truly vertically perpendicular to the track, leading to an angled gap. I’d like to invest in one of those handheld extensions that attach to the Dremel, but the one they have won’t fit my older model Dremel, and I would rather not invest in the other flavor extension they offer that I believe they show attaching to a drill press.
Rail nippers/clippers leave one good end and one smashed end. These tools should be used before the track is fastened down and normally used to cut rails to length.
A cut-off wheel should be used (usually only to cut electrical gaps in the rails) once the track is fastened down securely.
Never used suitcase fasteners yet, so no comment. I’ve always soldered and used terminal strips otherwise to connect wires.
A long straight-edge and well-drawn curve lines are sufficient, but those between-rails gauges are handy. The straights will keep out miniscule wiggles and so will the curved ones if your tracks match their fixed radii.
Even though my Xuron rail nippers do a very good job of cutting rail, I find that I still need to file the ends slightly so that the joints will be flush. If you get satisfactory results with your cutoff wheel, I’d stick with that.
For electrical connections to my track, I use both terminal strips AND suitcase connectors (or IDCs). I run 14ga wire for my track bus. One side of the IDC is crimped to the track bus; the other side to a piece of 18ga wire that’s hooked to a terminal strip. I then use the terminal strip to supply power to my track or turnouts via 20ga track feeders.
As far as the rail nippers, I use them as well as the dremel wheel. Just depends on circumstances. I also have a pair of rail nippers to use on the garden railroad which has code 250 aluminum rail (I use battery/radio control).
As others have said, you need to be careful what you cut as they can nick and then you have a problem.
I’d include the Xuron Rail Nippers in my list of “essential” tools for model railroading. I really like the clean cuts, although you do need a bit of trimming to get a factory-perfect end.
Like the man said, reserve them for cutting rails. Don’t clip wires with them because they’re on the bench and handy. That will result in uneven wear and premature dullness of the blades.
I use the Xuron rail nippers quite extensively. Nice clean cuts and no flying debris when the Dremel cutting wheel eventually desintegrates. I do use the cutting wheel on insulated gaps, though.
Maxman, I have that “other brand” flex shaft attached to my older Dremel and am very satisfied with it. I use it quite often, as I am hand laying all of my switches and powering the frogs. I have a Quick clamp type clamp with an “S” hook threaded through the hole in the end and hang the Dremel tool from that, clamp it anywhere I am working and have no problem with the Dremel tool rolling off the table. Cheap alternative to the name brand and it actually works well for more than a year now.
I wasn’t worried about the quality of the “other” brand. I just didn’t want to invest in one and then have the old Dremel die on me. I’d like a new Dremel, but until the old one does die I’ll make do with it. MicoMark does have package deals where you can get the Dremel with some attachments, but what that deal is apparently depends on what packages Dremel is making available for sale. I did order one of the packages from MicroMark where you got the Dremel and the handpiece for a great price, but then it came back from Micromark as unavailable. When I called to ask why, they gave me the “we never know what package Dremel will offer” reason.
If your hobby shop doesn’t stock Xuron nippers, Radio Shack sells “flush cutting pliers” which are the exact same thing only a bit cheaper and not as heavy duty. I use both and a cutoff wheel. I dress all the cuts with a file since all of the cuts leave some sort of ragged edge. Making a quick pass with a file makes putting on rail joiners easier and minimizes the rail gap.
i took a pair of diagonal cutting plyers to a buddy who operates a machine shop and he milled or ground down the back side flat to make a pair of flush cutting nippers out of them. they only cost me about 5 bucks and work as well as any of the more expensive hobby tools.
i already had some rail nippers but was just curious to see how this would work. you can do it yourself if you access to the right tools and a grinder.
I have found that you can only get two or three cuts from a Dremel disk before it is likely to shatter. For that reason I buy them in quantity. Eye protection is a must, regardless. And yes, the only way to get a straight cut is to use the flex shaft. Using a higher speed and very little pressure, slowly applied, works best for me.
Just a little suggestion concerning the thin Dremel abrasive cutting disks. I started doing this in the early 70’s when I was an auto mechanic to cut frozen bolts on exhaust systems, and even slitting pipes. A small circle of thin CA applied around the inner part of the disk greatly strengthens the, lets them do a lot more cutting before they disintegrate. I’ve been able sometimes to use a disk to the point that I’m starting to hit the mandrel.
My previous HO layout (11x15) had all track cut with a Dremel cutting disc. They work great, but can be VERY dangerous (cutting yourself or having the disc disintegrate in your face). For the current layout, I picked up a pair of Xuron cutters. I have used them on the entire layout, with the Dremel only pulled out for special situations. Note that both of them cut just fine, but need some dressing with a needle file.
I have a Xuron, works great. It’s not perfect - you do need to dress the edges a bit even on the ‘smooth’ side, although it’s nothing liek using a regular diagonal cutter or a razor saw to cut the track. Do remember to never cut anythign harder than nickle-silver rail - thin copper wire won’t hurt them, but music wire for switch motors - that’s a definite no-no. Also pay attention - the cut end, especially when just nipping a small bit of rail off to get a good fit, can really go flying. Cut AWAY from your face, or anyone else’s face.
Depending on the circumstances, I use both the Dremel cutting wheel and a flush cutter. I use the flush cutter to prepare track before putting it down permanently. Just a word of advice, cut the rail from top to bottom, not side to side-it will be much easier to dress to shape with a small file. I use the Dremel to cut isolation gaps at turnouts.
Instead of suitcase connectors, I like Posi-Tap connectors. They are much easier and quicker to install, require no tools other than a wire stripper, and can be reused if needed. Screw terminals have their place but it seems like a lot of work to use them just to tap into a buss. I only use them between modules with jumpers.
HI: I’m with Jefffery, I bought a pack of (10) Diamond Coated cut of wheels, I have 8 of them still in the package. I have used them to cut Rail, Nuts on car exhaust, Small Copper tubing, Steel Brake lines, and just about anything to grind, deburr, or shape. The one that Is gone, was worn out, just slightly biger that the mandrell. The second one is still in use.