Rails in roundhouse

Hello from the netherlands,

I am installing a turntable and I like to know,

what is the best way to fix the rail in a the roundhouse?

Thanks.

Normally you run the tracks first based on theroundhouse openings.

Which roundhouse? The Atlas one has a floor that takes Code 100 track, ties and all. Others may differ.

I have Atlas Code 100 bay tracks cut to length and adhered into place with a thin sheen of acrylic latex caulk smeared onto the underside of the ties. Once the caulk was applied, I inverted the tracks, carefully slid them into their correct position, well abutted up against the back of the depression they rest in, and let the caulk cure for a few hours. When they are fixed into place, drill and feed them near the outer edge of the apron in front of the double doors to each bay. I then filled in around the portion extending to the lip of the turntable with plaster of Paris, painted to look like concrete.

My layout is HO using code 83 rails. I used CA and glued the rails to the base. I made the roundhouse base from ⅛” plywood and used 3/16” bass wood for the floor using Aleene’s Wood Glue (painted concrete, weathered to an oily work area). I flush mounted the bass wood flush to the outside of the rails. After the rails and floor were finished I cut out the center between the rails for a maintenance pit.

Edit:

I made a guide from an oak 1" x 2" x 15" with my tablesaw to keep the rails in alignment during the gluing process.

It has worked out very good and is still very solid after 8 years of use.

The roundhouse is made from two kitbashed Korber 104 three stall Kits. I extended the length to accomidate my Cab Forwards.

Thanks for your replys

My roundhouse is from Walthers, so I have to strip the ties and work with the rail only.

The roundhouse is almost a compleet bild with the roofs in place, that makes it extra difficult.

Jan.

Whatever the method, this is a process calling for measuring repeatedly before the installation!

On my roundhouse, I have the rail right down atop the Homosote that has been painted “concrete”. This allowed for me to carve in several inspection pits between the rails (before rail installation). The actual rail attachment was the use of carefully applied Walthers Goo (a rubber-based cement) to the bottom of the rail. Once certain that the position was right, I held a hot soldering iron atop the rail, which “seals” the Goo. The roundhouse rail has survived 20+ years and one major move and is still solidly in place.

Bill