I realise there may be many ways to elevate track on a 3 or 4 percent grade, is one method to start flat and set the track on shims( cardboard or styrene etc) at a given distance, maintaning the right percent until the level you want is reached. I saw a photo here last week with shims under the track but I think it was to bank the track on a curve, any suggestion? some people use lengths of styrofoam cut at the percent, but what about curves?? Just how far apart do the shims have to be?
please visit my photo gallery at www.webshots.com/user/bayouman1 I have a section in “trains 1” that can show you how to begin elevating the track using cleats and risers under the sub roadbed. I would keep my grades no more than 2% or 2" rise per 100" of track. Anything over 2% will really shorten the length of your trains and is stressful on your locomotives. You can go over 2% if you plan on pulling very short trains with several locomotives and helpers. chuck
You are right when you assume that the use of shims was indeed for banking the tracks,also called superelevation.The purpose of banking is in fact to help trains to negociate curves easier and safer by keeping the weight oriented more vertically to the tracks,also reducing the lateral stress imposed on passengers for more comfortable ride.Although looking more prototypical,track banking has very little effect on model trains as the weight distribution isn’t even close to prototypical loads.Typically,banking is measured in degrees not percentage,usually around two degrees.
Your question is,I believe,about climb ratio wich is measured in percentage of raise to linear travel,meaning that let’s say 2% translates in a 2 in. climb over 100 in. of track length.Trains need moderate climbs to be able to operate,1% being very nice and 2% a percentage considered as a reasonable maximum.For relatively short climbs,3% is acceptable and 4% considered as pretty steep and would probably require extra pulling power even for moderately sized trains.
What I do to create a regular climb is taking a two in. thick foam,then cut it to the length and height of the desired climb.Let’s say I want a two in. climb in a one hundred in. length,that gives me a slim 100X2 in. rectangle wich I then cut diagonally to obtain a long triangle .Then I stick this triangular foam to the benchwork as per track plan with vertical cuts every one or two in. where needed for curves.Then all is left are the bottom and top easements for smooth transition into and out of the climb.I’ve tried this method and it worked well for me.
Woodland Scenics incline sets (subroadbed made of styrofoam) elevate at 2%, 3% or 4%. They are kerf-cut so they can be bent to nearly any radius.
I have also used wood shims from the hardware store for inclines of short length.
Dave Nelson
Make sure you don’t have a rail joint at the transition. The rail itself will help to ease the transition. I have 3 and 4% Woodland scenic ramps and have not had decoupling on my N guage, and I didn’t do anything special. For the best shims, use tape.
Or you can use the method that has been effective since the dawn of railroading, the cookie cutterdesign. Use plywood for the road bed, cut out the portion that is to be the ramp up (or down for that matter), then use risers to push the plywood up at the grade required. Works for curves or straights, any percent of grade and can vary the percent of grade mid curve. Special added bonus, it automatically forms a smooth vertical curve at the top and bottom so your engines won’t bottom out or the pilots/pilot sheet won’t hit the rails.
Dave H.
I did a modified cookie cutter. I cut 2.5" wide strips of plywood and mounteded it on wood risers spaced about every 1’. I did a 2.5% grade.
You can still see some of the risers exposed.
I used a level as I went to cut the risers to the proper height. Stuff with newspaper, plaster and color to taste. You can always add a shim here or there to level the track out.