I am starting to see pleas for help from modelers that are using products formulated for uses other than model railroading. They use said products, then complain when it doesn’t work as they think it should, or when something goes wrong after they have used it.
It seems like everyone wants to save a buck by using really cheap stuff these day, then when they have a problem, they can’t figure out why and complain about it.
If you want consistently good results, spend the money for the products designed for model railroading.
EDIT
I guess my point here is: If you are going to use these unorthodox products and they don’t work, suck it up and don’t complain. Learn form your mistake and don’t do it again.
So I should stop using products for plastic modeling, or RC modeling or rocketry when I build or make things for my layout?
I have a plethora of materials and tools that are not specifically made for MRR that I use in ALL my hobbies and I have no problems what-so-ever.
Future floor finish is not a MRR specific product and it’s invaluable when decaling.
Plaster of Paris is not a MRR specific product and I’ve used it quite successfully over the years for making castings and scenery.
Aileen’s Mighty Tacky is a great adhesive, but it’s not MRR specifc. Works great for many things on my layout.
I have a whole drawer of Apple Barrel craft paints I use in my air brush with great success and they aren’t MRR specific.
MicroScale Krystal Clear is not MRR specific but works great for adhering clear windows and other clear parts.
I could go on and on but I think you can see my point.
I’ve been building models for over 30 years now and have found lots of products that are not ‘specific’ to any hobby but work very well. I try not to limit the tools in my hobby tool box.
I think you are trying to say, if you tried something that wasn’t ment for the job and it didn’t work, don’t complain. If it did work, let us know by sharing the happy results. (You could tell us something didn’t work too, save others from trying something that won’t work.)
I find using something that I got on the “cheap” that wasn’t designed for MRR use is one of the most fulfilling parts of the hobby. Matter of fact, I just got done with a building made from plastic signs you can buy at the hardware store or WalMart-lots of fun and a great value.
Can definitely relate to this subject! A life-long HO friend and yours truly decided to try steel stud HO module framework and legs. We were somewhat disappointed with the lack of sturdiness of prototype module and fdinally gave up on the project. Later, I saw the same concept used with the PROPER cross-bracing and now regret we didn’t experiment much more, as the modules were super-lightweight, compared to conventional module construction and even cost us less to build! Go Figure! Maybe I’ll try this method again! TTFN…Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
I’m honestly not sure what specific examples you’re referring to. There are some products – ground foam, for instance – that I would be hard pressed to do without. OTOH, I have found that many products which are designed for other craft uses, and even general household use, work very well for model railroading. Examples are legion – latex caulk, artists acrylic media, sedum plants from my back yard, etc.
Just to give another example – when I got back into the hobby a dozen years ago, I bought a bunch of WS rock molds to make rock faces with. I’m now much happier with the results I get using Sculptamold and a palette knife.
Now, if you try to use, I don’t know, floor polish to simulate water, then it’s a crap shoot. But you still have to be willing to try repeatedly until you get it right. But in any event, what works for one person may not work so well for the next.
Okay, but let’s see the other side here. What about the unorthodox that SHOULD have worked and didn;t. Such as the metal frame benchwork. Prblem wasn’t the product, but the user. In which case a complaint would’ve pointed in the right direction.
I was going to make the same observation, Wabash! In my experience, those little Testor’s rattle cans really pour on the paint thick while the Krylon I get at Home Depot can be made to go on in very thin layers. No replacement for an airbrush but for quick-n-dirty they work for me!
Well, never intended for the job and not made for model railroading are two different things, really. If I paint somethign with a non-model railroad paint, what I am using not as intended? It’s not like I’m trying to glue somethign together, I’m painting it, which is what paint is made for. Ground foam wasn;t originally made for model railroaders, it was made for architectural models. But a model is a model, is it not? CA was not made for model railroading, but it sure comes in handy for certain things.
I suspect the impetus behind the post was the thread on getting a milky film when using Future to provide a gloss coat prior to decaling. That one might be a bit out there but it seems a lot of people do this with no problem. No reason it shouldn’t, it is a clear gloss acrylic finish in some carrier vehicle. Pretty much the same as any gloss acrylic paint. It seems to behave as any other acrylic, which is to say that there are sometimes incompatbilities between the base coat and acrylic. Same thing would likely happen with the use of clear gloss acrylic paint applied in the same manner.
Back to the paint - why would I ever buy one of those stinking small cans of Testors paint when for the same price I can buy 3 big cans of the generic brand at WalMart? Particularly for using flat black, like painting car weights.
…and let’s not even mention the materials that are made for model railroading and also don’t work … such as the Rivarossi doo-hicky that was supposed to assist in laying double track to a perfect parallel, the old hydraulic drive flywheels that leaked oil, those couplers that were supposed to mate equally well (sic) with Kadees and horn hooks, the old Lionel video camera in the cab, and various uncoupling tools that are supposed to work every time.
As someone pointed out, maybe the bravest human who ever lived is the one who ate the first oyster. You won’t know if it works until you try. And go ahead and post a rant about failures. This is the town without pity.
I think you are trying to say, if you tried something that wasn’t meant for the job and it didn’t work, don’t complain. If it did work, let us know by sharing the happy results. (You could tell us something didn’t work too, save others from trying something that won’t work.)
Have fun, Richard
If it works use it but,don’t cry if it fails after all you’re using a product that was never intended for the failed job…
Sounds like a simple rule.
I prefer to stick with the tried and true and not the latest “great idea” that some “expert” is pushing through the magazines…
Larry
Exactly.
Use anything you want on your own Model Railroad that is not designed for it’s intended use - at your own risk.
If it fails, I don’t want to hear you crying in your milk.
I am guilty of using non MRR stuff for my layout. a For Sale sign you get at Home Depot -a little gray or flat black paint and now you have road, sidewalk, or parking lot. Wood dowels make great log loads, and the decorative rocks you can get in the flower section of a craft store- great loads for coal or other types of hoppers- just shoot them with some dulcote and it looks great.
