I thought about doing a whole tutorial on hand-laying track, but after a quick search of the YouTube, it seems that we’re well covered. I’ve already mentioned above that I used Fast Tracks jigs for the 220mm curves, and the center section of the 195mm curves. The 195mm curves are spiral curves so I couldn’t use the jig for the whole thing. The turnouts were laid using FT jigs and the rest was done with Trifecta rail gauges. Fast Tracks recommends using 3 Trifecta tools, but I only used 2. If I were to do it again, I’d order a 3rd. It wasn’t terribly difficult to do with 2, but a third hand is always better.


Bare, unpainted track.
A few words on painting. Once the track was complete, I masked off the contact points of the turnouts, well the inside anyway. I do this because I don’t want paint between the rails, in Z scale, even a small amount of paint could cause the train to pick the switch. Once that was finished, I painted everything Tamiya XF-1 black. I’ve been a proponent of black-basing for years. Even with my ship models, everything is painted black first, and I work back from there. Model railroading is no exception. Black takes all of the dissimilar materials and textures and marries them together. From here, we have the canvas the same color, and the rest of our paint will go down evenly, and there is no variation in the color. The black also mimics natural shadow, so even after the track is painted with the color coats, the black will make the track appear more natural.
After the black base, it was time for the rail brown. In small scales, colors should always be much lighter than 1:1. Small models make the brain think they’re farther away and the colors should always be lighter to compensate. Painting 1:1 color on a scale model will always make them appear too dark. I always have a chuckle over the folks who agonize over that color chip to paint their favorite model, when in the real world they’ve gone far too dark. Model railroad track is no exception. HOWEVER, with that said, there are exceptions. The exception being things you’d like to hide, such as rail. Painting the rail lighter was going to make it stick out a lot, especially against my lighter, sun-bleached ties.


I did a little experiment; I mixed up some of my usual rail-brown color and set it aside. Then I mixed up another batch, that was lighter, and more of a “rust” color. I did a small test area, and it looked atrocious. The rust color just stuck out too much, suspicions confirmed. Revert to type. Rail brown is Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown and a small amount of Orange, X-6. You can mix till you find a color that matches your lighting conditions.
I painted over the “rust” with my darker, more 1:1 rail brown color. One of the advantages of a small layout like mine, is that I can turn it on its side for all of this. So instead of airbrushing downward, I was able to do it as if it were a canvas painting. Far more natural!

For the ties I used Tamiya:
XF-59 Desert Yellow
XF-52 ■■■■■■■■■■
XF-57 Buff
XF-55 Deck Tan
…and several combinations mixed together.
Having 4 or 5 colors really adds a light of visual interest. In order to marry everything back together, I used Tamiya ■■■■■■■■■■ to blend all the colors.
With the ties now painted, it’s time to cover the track with masking tape. That means no running trains until the basic scenery is in. I don’t ballast my track until nearly the end. The one exception is the track inside the tunnel portals. That’ll be ballasted and sealed.
I did a test fit of the tunnel liner forms, and the wood tunnel portals themselves are just there to make sure that everything is aligned. They’ll be disposed of when the proper portals are finished. Nothing is lined up in this photo, just some rough stacking to give you the impression of how things will look.
Also, I had a little help from Eli

