I bought the new Proto 2000 RDC-1 in SP scheme and installed a decoder in it. I was then looking for some RDC dummy rolling stock, but no one makes any except old Athearn blue box. Someone was selling a pair on eBay, so I got them brand new for $10 each.
I knew this was going to happen: the Athearn is too shiny. The Proto looks more real. So I am wondering (I am sure most people can imagine the richer, grey stainless steel vs. cheap bright silvery) if there is a way to match. A grey coat, followed by the Testors dull-cote product maybe? Just the dull coat?
I don’t know if you ever caught any posts by Antonio45,but he does a lot of painting of passenger cars and such,even that arclad finish,maybe he’ll chime in and give you an idea,I’m sure he may have one…If he don’t chime in,shoot him a PM and see if he can help…I do a lot of painting,but not on what you want…
My first thought would be just to apply Dull Coat. But, I’d try it on a small spot first. If the underside of the car is the same color, use that, otherwise mask off the end or a door and test it there, so you don’t have to strip the whole model if it doesn’t come out the way you’d like.
I have a rattle can of silver paint. I find that using that, followed by Dull Coat, gives me a good weathered metal look. Agan, find a scrap piece of styrene and try that out.
@zstripe: I was actually thinking about that! He has not posted for a while though; thanks for reminding me of his name.
@steemtrayn: Yes what a pain, and I did not know this before. But, the Proto is an RDC1 and the Athearns are RDC3s so I can hide behind that a little. the overall dimness are ok, but the horns are black (!) molded plastic so I will need to paint them. I have a silver paint rattle can somewhere …
I am also looking for decals (great thing was both of these were unlettered), and perhaps need to look into drilling holes for lights. These units also have the same frame as the power units with rubber band drive, so they are heavy! I wonder if I can trim some weight out, my one power unit struggles with two of them up one particular grade. I am quite happy though that couplers are body mounted and they operate real well in push mode. This was very important.
I have a P2k RDC that I am quite pleased with now. When I got it was in Santa Fe livery and I thought, the finish sparkled too much… I striped it and painted it with Testors silver and then with DulCote. I think it looks a little more care worn now than with the sparkle of the original finish.
Guys, thanks for the mention. I hope that I can be of some help.
The new run RDC units from Walthers are very attractive with their metalized (plated) finishes. Would be nice if you could post your photos.
Matching bright silver paint to a metalized finish that has a neutral gray tone can be a challenge. Applying Dullcoat to your Athearns will “notch down” the brilliance but your tone will be a dulled silver (although the contrast might not be as harsh). Dulled silver tends to appear more comparably to aluminum than to stainless steel.
A light or medium gray color followed by dull-cote will only make the unit appear that it’s covered in primer.
Have you considered metalizing your Athearn shells? Here is an older run Proto 1000 RDC shell that I metalized with Alclad2:
If you’re into spray cans – hey, I know it’s more than just Jeffrey and me[8D] – I’ve been using a couple of Rustoleum products with good results. The Metallic 7271 Silver Metallic puts down a nicely weathered finish appropriate for down on the farm on grain bins and other galvanized metal structures or for weathered aluminum. The Bright Coat Metallic Finish 7715 Silver provides a shiny new bright surface. It looks more like fresh raw aluminum metal. Does a great job of building a condensor unit.
It’s kind of small in the pic, but one I made and painted with the 7715 is on top of the Webber’s Wholesale distribution center.
