Still bogged down with my layout in N due to few Kato Uni-Track not here yet…d’oh!
But I hooked the system up and lay it all out and start testing equipment and found the bigger modern stuff like AC4400CW and SD90Mac and Red Caboose Auto-Rack have problem with the 9 3/4" curves despite Kato saying all their equipment’s minimum is the 9 3/4" and I used one of thier plans for my 8X5.
I sort of new this is coming so I also ordered some bigger curves like the 12" but then that’s seems to completely destroyed the plan because the original plan sot of just sits nicely on my 8X5. Just ordered some 11" ones, that’s might be a better compromise but still going to have to move things around a bit.
Searched Kato website and they think converting to the long shank couplers that also comes with their engines might help but might affect the look in a consist…
What would you do? Put the longer shanks in and get it over with or put in the bigger curves and shuffle things around a bit…I haven’t really built or glued down anything yet so it’s still not too late…I checked overhang, 9" is bad but I only have 4 corners so it’s not too bad the rest are on #6 turnout…bigger curve obviously will improve the look but that means I am going to have tracks right up against the wall and edges of the table if I put in larger curves…man, I knew this is coming! Murphy’s Law!
OK, the fiddleing around is definitely worth it…just put the larger curvers in and not only it looks so much better but also now operating 99.9% reliable now. Thanks to the brilliant design of the Uni-Track, it’s not all that much of a pain afterall!
Have had the same problem with areas on my layout and Katos big locos (6 wheel trucks). I have used the long shank couplers but don’t like the looks. My best solution was to move to different loco like the SD40s (four wheel trucks).
I also was more successful using cars that have MicroTrains couplers than the Kato couplers. They seem more flexible.
<> When I get more loco time, I may even try to convert the Katos to bodymount MicroTrain couplers and see if that helps.
Since you are using the big six axle diesels and autoracks I would suggest a minimum radius of 11" and you wouldn’t have to use longer shanks. Anything larger will be a bonus.
I have converted all my Kato and Atlas engines to MT couplers as they are VERY reliable.
You are right about the larger curves, the larger the better…I decided to go with 12.5" radius ones or 318mm diameter and not only it looks much better but once the Kato couplers couple with MT ones, they seem to work fine. Not sure if the magnet will make them uncouple properly though…may be I should standardise them…
Kato’s wonderful passenger car offerings (they even promote the Super Chief A sets as being good for folks with small layouts), and their lack of curve radii to support them puzzles me. It takes a 15" radius to get past long cars looking to toy-like (to me), yet there is no available radius curves to allow double tracking with a 15" minimum…and no 15 or 45 degree pieces with 15" radius. Their 19" curves make nice broad curves for the long-bodies, but again no corresponding double track radii larger or smaller…and no 30 or 45 degree pieces. It’s like Kato’s right hand (Unitrack) doesn’t know what their left hand (rolling stock and locomotives) is doing.
BTW…my Unitrack thru-truss bridge arrived the other day. I was looking at the package and noticed something strange (for appearing on bridge packaging) noted on the back…a note to the effect that 315mm (12-3/8") curves should be used when operating longer body models. It was the first time I’d seen any kind of official stand by Kato on the minimum radius issue.
I would go for the larger radii curves, even if it means simplifying / modifying your track plan. I’d try to go for 15" radius curves, 19" if you can - KIM, you can have that as your mainline min radius, still have sharper curves in industrial areas, sidings, yards etc.
This is interesting because I only have single mainline except passing sidings, I don’t such problem. For single mainline, I thought their track design is brilliant because it means simplified track modification is desired since they are all in either 45 degree or 15 degree pieces.
BTW, I was going to get their truss bridge but afraid the double stack wellcars might not work. So do you know if double stackers will go through the truss bridge?